LIBRARY 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

SANTA  BARBARA 

PRESENTED  BY 
MRS.    NELL-IE  R.    PREUSS 


A   PLEA  FOR    HARDY  PLANTS 


KALMIA    LATI  FOLIA 


A  PLEA  FOR    HARDY 
PLANTS 


HHttlj    &isgg?0ttati£   for 
Arrattgrmrttt 


J.    WILKINSON    ELLIOTT 

(Landscape    Architect) 


rRANSACTIONS     OF    THE     MASSACHU? ETTS     HORTICULTURAL    SOCIETY,    PART     I,    1895 

WITH   ADDITIONAL   PLANS  AND   COPIOUS  ILLUSTRATIONS 
BY  J.  HORACE   MCFARLAND   AND  OTHERS 


SECOND    EDITION 


New  York:    1907 
DOUBLEDAY,    PAGE    &    COMPANY 


COPYRIGHT     7907 

sr 

J.    WILKINSON    ELLIOTT 


I uunt    flraaant    Prr« 

J.  Horace  McFarland  Company 

Harrisburg.  Pennsylvania 


JAPANESE    CRAB    APPLE 


INTRODUCTION 

HIS  book  has  not  been  written  to  teach  the  art  of 
landscape  gardening,  but  the  need  of  it.  The  stu- 
dent of  landscape  gardening  will  find  many  excel- 
lent books  on  the  subject,  but  the  public  hardly 
knows  that  there  is  such  an  art,  and  that  good  gar- 
dens and  grounds,  like  good  houses,  are  always  the 
result  of  intelligent  study  and  design. 

The  annual  expenditure  for  suburban  and  country 
homes  is  enormous,  and  while  an  architect  is  always 
employed  to  design  and  plan  the  house,  with  but  few 
exceptions  the  treatment  of  the  grounds  is  intrusted 
to  the  nearest  two-dollar-a-day  jobbing  gardener,  or 
the  owner  is  his  own  landscape  gardener.  The  result 
is  always  unsatisfactory,  although  often  the  expendi- 
ture would  have  secured  most  beautiful  effects  if 
directed  by  skilled  advice.  The  folly  of  this  is  more 
apparent  when  it  is  considered  that  fully  fifty  per  cent 
of  the  cost  of  the  better  class  of  houses  is  expended  with  the  desire  of 
producing  beauty ;  one  dollar  intelligently  spent  on  the  grounds  will 
afford  more  beauty  than  will  ten  spent  on  the  house,  and  the  attractive- 
ness of  the  house  is  greatly  enhanced  by  the  beauty  and  fitness  of  the 
grounds.  I  have  endeavored  to  show  this  by  good  pictures  rather  than 
with  much  writing.  }  WILKINSON  ELLIOTT 

Pittsburg,   September  fo,  1902 


RHODODENDRON    ALBUM    GR.1ND1FLORUM 


A  PLEA  FOR   HARDY  PLANTS 

T  must  be  remembered  that  my  experience  has  been  with  a 
more  western  civilization,  and  some  of  my  remarks  may  not 
have  much  force  addressed  to  so  enlightened  a  gardening 
community  as  that  of  Boston  and  its  suburbs.  Yet  I  am  told 
there  are  some  people  in  this  neighborhood  who  persist,  and 
at  considerable  outlay  and  trouble,  in  using  thousands  of 
tender  bedding  plants  to  make  poor  representations  of 
inanimate  objects.  If  this  is  true  they  cannot  make  the  plea 
of  not  knowing  better,  for  all  about  them  are  many  of  the 
best  and  most  tasteful  gardens  in  America  —  splendid  exam- 
ples of  garden  schemes  in  which  the  so-called  bedding  plants 
cut  little  or  no  figure. 

There  has  been  so  much  written  and  said  on  the  subject, 
and  the  great  advantages  of  gardening  with  hardy  plants  and 
shrubs  are  so  apparent,  as  compared  with  tender  bedding  plants,  that  it 
seems  a  waste  of  time  and  words  to  make  any  argument  in  favor  of  one 
and  against  the  other;  but  the  argument  is  needed  as  much  as  ever,  for 
it  is  an  undeniable  fact  that  nine-tenths  of  the  ornamental  gardening  in 
America  is  still  done  with  a  few  commonplace  and  uninteresting  bedding 


ROSA    SETIGERA 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


ii 


plants.  Think  of  the  pity  of  it,  that  all  this  enormous  annual  expenditure 
should  be  wasted  —  an  expenditure  that  leaves  our  gardens  in  the  fall 
exactly  as  it  found  them  in  the  spring, — bare  earth,  and  nothing  in  it. 

Is  it  because  the  people  prefer  bedding  plants  to  hardy  ones?  You 
who  know  hardy  plants  know  that  this  is  not  so.  Who  would  prefer, 
let  us  say,  a  bed  of  coleuses  or  geraniums  to  a  fine  group  of  rhodo- 
dendrons, or  azaleas,  or  Lilium  auratum,  or  Japanese  anemones,  or  to 
the  hundreds  of  fine  things  to  be  had  in  hardy  shrubs  and  plants? 
Any  one  of  these  has  a  beauty  incomparably  greater  than  can  be  pro- 
duced with  the  most  lavish  use  of  bedding  plants.  Then  the  bedding 
plants  are  a  yearly  expense,  while  an  investment  in  hardy  plants  and 
shrubs  returns  the  investor  an  annual  dividend  in  increased  size  and 
loveliness.  Every  dollar  spent  for  them  secures  a  permanent  addition 


AZALEA    NUDIFLORA 


12  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

to  the  garden,  and  the  time  soon  comes  when  the  annual  outlay  can 
be  devoted  entirely  to  care  and  culture. 

I  know  a  gentleman  who  carried  a  fine  stalk  of  Lilium  anratum 
flowers  into  the  office  of  one  of  the  largest  business  houses  in  our  city. 
Not  a  man  in  the  office  knew  what  it  was,  and  all  were  unwilling  to 
believe  that  it  grew  in  his  garden.  They  supposed  it  to  be  some  rare 
and  costly  flower  grown  in  a  conservatory.  Yet  these  lilies,  and 
dozens  of  other  things  as  fine,  can  now  be  bought  as  cheaply  as  bedding 
plants. 

The  people  do  not  prefer  bedding  plants  to  hardy  ones.  They 
have  no  choice  in  the  matter.  They  buy  what  the  local  florist  offers 
and  what  they  see  in  their  neighbors'  gardens.  They  are  not  sufficiently 
interested  to  make  inquiries.  They  do  not  read  the  gardening  papers; 
and,  with  few  exceptions,  the  managers  of  the  city  parks,  who  should  be 
educators  of  the  people  in  gardening,  are  content  with  what  might  be 
called  an  annual  pyrotechnical  display  of  bedding  plants,  as  it  is  of  such 
short  duration  and  little  artistic  value. 

The  popularity  of  bedding  plants  is  happily  on  the  wane.  It  occurs 
to  almost  everybody  after  a  time  that  they  do  not  get  much  for  their 
money  when  they  buy  this  sort  of  material;  but  I  cannot  say  that  hardy 
plants  are  gaining  much.  There  is  no  considerable  effort  made  to 
attract  the  public  attention  to  their  merits;  and  when  some  man,  more 
enterprising  than  his  neighbors,  does  take  the  trouble  to  hunt  them  up 
and  do  his  gardening  with  them  the  result  is  not  always  happy.  He 
is  very  apt  to  use  them  as  he  would  bedding  plants  —  that  is,  in  formal 
beds  cut  out  of  the  grass  of  the  lawn.  Of  course,  hardy  plants  do  not 
lend  themselves  to  this  treatment,  and  it  is  one  of  their  greatest  merits 
that  they  do  not.  Better  no  flowers  at  all  than  that  the  lawn  should 
be  cut  up  in  formal  beds  for  their  accommodation. 

An  objection  often  urged  against  hardy  plants  is  their  short  dura- 
tion of  bloom,  but  this  really  is  one  of  their  greatest  merits.  Let  us 
consider  the  garden  that  depends  exclusively  upon  bedding  plants  for  its 
decoration.  It  is  usually  the  first  of  June  before  they  can  be  planted, 
and  it  is  well  into  July  before  they  are  effective ;  often  by  the  end 
of  September  they  are  killed  by  frost,  and  every  day  during  their  short 
season  of  three  months  they  are  as  unchanging  in  appearance  as  the 
carpets  in  our  houses,  and  about  as  interesting. 

On   the  contrary,  the  well-planned    and  well-planted  garden  ot    hardy 


ROCK-GARDEN   AND    POOL   AT   WELLESLEY,  MASS. 


CHINESE    WISTARIA 


m 


1 


plants  begins  its  season  with  earliest 
spring  and  terminates  it  not  with  the  first 
light  frosts  of  fall,  but  when  November 
brings  some  real  winter  weather,  and  then 
only  goes  to  rest  to  delight  us  afresh 
with  the  coming  of  another  spring. 
Almost  every  day  throughout  its  long 
season  the  hardy  garden  is  changing 
with  the  changes  of  the  season,  some- 
thing new  is  coming  into  bloom,  and 
before  it  becomes  monotonous  its  season 
is  over  and  its  place  taken  by  some 
other  flower  equally  beautiful  and  inter- 
esting but  entirely  different.  Our  gar- 
den is  never  tiresome;  its  past  is  a 
pleasant  memory,  its  future  a  delightful 
anticipation,  and  its  bloom  an  accurate 
calendar  of  the  seasons.  Is  this  true,  or 
only  fanciful  writing?  It  is  true,  every 
word  of  it  —  hard  but  pleasant  facts. 

Snowdrops  are  in  bloom  with  the  first 
pleasant  weather  in  spring;  some  springs 
they  are  in  bloom  during  the  first  week 
in  March.  They  are  quickly  followed  by 
scillas  and  crocuses,  and  then  comes  the 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS  15 

season  of  tulips  and  narcissi,  with  their  countless  varieties.  What  a 
variety  of  form  in  the  narcissi !  What  a  wealth  of  color  in  the  tulips ! 
Their  season  is  fully  a  month,  and  before  it  is  done  the  early-flowering 
herbaceous  plants  are  showing  bloom  and  the  flowering  shrubs  have 
begun  a  display  that  will  end  only  with  fall.  By  May  scores  of  hardy 
shrubs  and  plants  are  in  bloom  —  creeping  phloxes,  columbines,  do- 
ronicums,  Oriental  poppies,  German  and  Siberian  irises,  and  in  shrubs, 
lilacs,  early  spireas,  Japan  quinces,  magnolias,  and  Mollis  and  Ghent 
azaleas.  We  must  not  forget  the  hardy  climbers,  of  which  the  clematis, 
in  its  numerous  splendid  varieties,  covers  a  season  of  fully  six  months  and 
with  which  alone  a  most  charming  and  interesting  garden  could  be  made. 
June  brings  such  a  wealth  of  bloom  that  we  are  at  a  loss  as  to  what 
to  use  and  what  to  reject.  Rhododendrons  in  many  varieties  and  colors, 


HERBACEOUS    PEONY 


i6 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


kalmias,  Lilium  candidum  and  elegans,  and  hardy  roses  are  the  flowers, 
perhaps,  that  hold  the  greatest  share  of  our  admiration  at  this  season, 
and  if  June  gave  us  hardy  roses  alone,  our  garden  should  be  satis- 
factory. The  memory  of  a  fine  collection  of  hardy 
roses  in  full  bloom  is  worth  more  than  all  the  rib- 
bon- and  carpet-beds  ever  devised ;  and  in  saying 
j  this  it  is  with  full  knowledge  of  the  much-adver- 
'  tised  rolls  of  carpet,  vases,  worlds  of  flowers,  etc., 
which  South  Park,  Chicago,  exhibits  to  a 
wondering  world. 

I    fear    that    much  of    the    benefit    of    the 

/example    of    Mr.    Olmsted's 
and    Mr.   Codman's  work  at 

'   j,<  A         the    World's    Fair    was    lost. 

It  was  so  well  done  and  so 
naturally  done  that  a  ma- 
jority of  the  visitors 
never  suspected  that  a 
landscape  gardener  had 
been  employed. 

After  the  glori- 
ous beauty  of  June 
we  might  be  con- 
tent to  have  our 
garden  tame  for  a 
month  or  two.  But 
there  is  no  need 
for  tameness.  At 
the  beginning  of 
July  the  magnifi- 
cent Japanese  irises 
are  in  bloom,  than 
which  there  is  noth- 
ing finer.  Wealthy 
men  build  and 
maintain  glass 
houses  at  great 
expense  to  shelter 


FORSYTH1A    FORTUNEl 


A    NOBLE    SPECIMEN,  ABIES  CONCOLOR    VIOLALEA 


FOXGLOVES   IN   A    GARDEN   AT   EDGEfTORTH,  PA. 

things  not  half  so  fine.  After  the  irises  come  the  Japanese  lilies,  and 
with  a  little  management  these  will  give  a  brave  show  of  bloom  through- 
out the  summer  and  fall  until  frost  comes.  To  carry  us  through  the 
summer  we  have  also  tall  phloxes,  yuccas,  rudbeckias,  gaillardias,  tiger 
lilies,  hollyhocks — single  and  double  —  campanulas,  Rosa  rugosa,  day 
lilies,  altheas,  hydrangeas,  tamarix,  hardy  sunflowers,  bocconias,  bol- 
tonias,  the  splendid  tall  delphiniums,  and  the  curious  and  beautiful 
Liatris  pycnostachya,  which  attracts  all  the  butterflies  in  the  neighborhood. 
These  and  many  other  lovely  things  give  a  succession  of  beauty  through- 
out the  summer  days. 

And  when  fall  comes  we  have  still  some  of  the  best  flowers  in  reserve, 
notably  the  Japanese  anemones  and  the  old-fashioned  and  really  hardy 
chrysanthemums.  The  flowers  of  both  these  good  things  will  endure 
the  early  frosts  and  early  snow-storms  and  delight  us  with  a  show  of 
bloom  on  such  sunshiny  days  as  we  may  be  favored  with  in  late  fall. 


20 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


It  may  be  thought  that  to  win  my  admiration  a  flower  must  be  hardy. 
Nothing  of  the  sort.  Certainly  the  basis  of  all  good  outdoor  gardening 
must  be  hardy  material ;  but  the  skilful  gardener  or  amateur  will  find  a 
place  for  many  tender  plants,  and  especially  for  the  so-called  summer- 
blooming  bulbs,  such  as  gladioli,  dahlias,  and  tuberous  begonias,  all 
of  which  are  easily  wintered  in  any  dwelling-house;  and  he  will  even  find 
a  place  for  the  new  large-flowering  cannas,  but  that  place  is  not  in 
isolated  beds  on  the  lawn.  I  have  seen  them  used  to  the  best  advantage 
in  small  groups  in  the  margin  of  shrubbery,  where  the  full  benefit  of 
their  really  fine  coloring  was  attained,  but  their  stiffness  and  ungracefulness 
concealed.  And  the  many  fine  annuals  which  are  so  cheaply  and  easily 
raised  from  seeds  are  not  to  be  overlooked — Phlox  T)rummondn,  Shirley 
poppies,  sweet  peas,  asters,  calliopsis,  are  all  fine,  and  I  am  free  to 
confess  that  there  are  but  few  things  among  hardy  plants  that  I  admire 

more    than    a    fine    mass    of    tall    nas- 
turtiums.    The    garden    of    hardy 
plants    is   within    the    reach    of 
the    humblest  gardener,  yet 
it  will  satisfy  the  demand 
of  the  most  ambitious; 
and     the    finest    show 
places     of      America 
and    Europe   are  de- 
voted   almost    exclu- 
sively   to    hardy  ma- 
terial.      If     a    great 
collection  is  desired, 
there     are    countless 
thousands  of  species 
and    varieties    to    be 
obtained  ;   or  if  it  is 
desired     to     show 
great    cultural    skill, 
the     rare     al  pines, 
the  lovely  California 
poppy     (Romneya 
Coulteri),  the    stately 
eremurus,       the 


HARDY   ASTERS 


22 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


charming  rock  roses,  the  noted  edelweiss,  the  dainty  trailing  arbutus, 
and  scores  of  other  lovely  but  difficult  plants  will  try  one's  ingenuity 
and  patience  to  the  utmost.  In  gardening,  as  in  other  pursuits,  the 
greater  the  labor  the  greater  the  reward. 

I  have  almost  overlooked  the  water  garden,*  which  of  all  gardens  is 
perhaps  the  most  interesting  and  charming.  What  possibilities  here  of 
lovely  and  artistic  arrangements  with  all  the  great  variety  of  aquatic  and 


POND   LILIES,  WITH    HARDY   HYDRANGEAS   IN    THE    BACKGROUND 


•semi-aquatic  plants!  What  can  be  more  lovely  than  the  nymphasas,  now 
obtainable  in  a  score  of  shades  and  colors,  or  grander  than  the  stately 
nelumbiums,  with  their  splendid  pink,  white  or  yellow  flowers?  How 
charming  the  water  garden  can  be  has  been  shown  by  Mr.  Wilson,  of 

*Since  this  lecture  was  delivered,  Miss  Jekyll's  charming  book,  "Wall  and  Water  Gardens,"  has 
been  published.  It  describes  and  illustrates  two  very  interesting  phases  of  gardening  in  an  exhaus- 
tive way,  and  is  altogether  a  delightful  book,  with  some  of  the  best  gardening  pictures  that  have  ever 
been  published. 


24  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

Wisley,  England,  and  if  there  are  any  more  interesting  or  lovely  gardens 
than  this  I  have  failed  to  see  them. 

Recently  there  have  been  introduced  a  great  many  new  varieties  of 
nymphaeas,  all  interesting  to  the  collector;  but  Mr.  Robinson  says,  and 
my  experience  confirms  it,  that  the  really  desirable  hardy  garden  kinds 
can  be  included  in  a  selection  of  six  varieties, — that  is,  varieties  of  such 
vigorous  growth  and  free-flowering  qualities  that  they  make  garden  pic- 
tures. The  varieties  he  names  are  Nymphaa  alba  candidissima,  N .  Glad- 
stoniana,  N.  Marliacea  rosea^  N.  Marliacea  chromatella,  N.  odorata,  and  TV. 
odorata  rosea. 

The  most  important  thing  we  have  to  consider  in  connection  with 
gardening  hardy  plants  and  shrubs  is  their  arrangement.  We  must  study 
to  produce  a  pleasing  effect  at  all  seasons  and  to  have  a  succession  of 
bloom,  so  that  the  garden  will  never  be  dull  or  uninteresting. 

First,  let  us  take  the  smallest  garden  that  we  can  hope  to  make  a 
gardening  success  with, — that  is,  a  fifty-foot  city  or  suburban  lot.  This  is 
a  lot  usually  considered  too  small  to  do  much  with  in  a  gardening  way, 
yet  it  is  the  lot  owned  by  thousands  of  well-to-do  and  cultivated  people, 
and  well  worthy  of  consideration.  I  can  best  illustrate  a  good  arrangement 
for  such  a  lot  by  describing  a  garden  in  my  neighborhood.  The  lot  is 
fifty  feet  front  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  deep  to  an  alley.  A  path 
leads  from  the  sidewalk  to  the  steps  of  the  front  porch;  thence  around 
the  west  side  of  the  house  to  the  steps  of  the  kitchen  porch,  and  thence 
straight  out  to  the  alley.  The  house  is  thirty  feet  from  the  street  line. 
The  owner  of  the  lot  believes  with  me  that  every  garden  should  be 
inclosed,  and  has  selected  as  the  most  desirable  inclosure  a  hedge  of 
California  privet,  which  furnishes  him  a  background  of  verdure  to  set 
his  flowering  plants  against.  He  has  some  difficulty  in  establishing  a 
portion  of  the  hedge  immediately  between  his  house  and  those  of  his 
neighbors,  on  account  of  the  shade,  but  has  overcome  it  by  extra 
culture  and  deep  trenching  and  draining.  The  plan  of  his  extremely 
simple  but  effective  garden  is  as  follows :  A  border  has  been  made 
entirely  around  the  house  except  at  the  entrances,  varying  from  one  to 
three  feet  in  width.  The  front  porch  is  covered  with  Hall's  and  golden 
honeysuckles,  Clematis  Jackmani,  C.  Henryi,  and  C.  paniculata.  The 
borders  in  front  of  the  porch  are  planted  with  Eulalia  gracillima, 
erianthus,  Funkia  Sieboldiana  and  F.  subcordata — the  funkias  in  front 
of  the  eulalia  and  erianthus.  As  all  these  plants  are  grown  for 


BORDER    OF    TULIPS   ALONG    EDGE    OF    SHRUBBERY 

Showing  an  effective  and  permanent  way  of  using  spring-flowering  bulbs 

form  and  foliage,  they  are  effective  throughout  the  season.  A  group  of 
tuberous  begonias  is  also  introduced  in  this  border,  and  of  course  has 
to  be  planted  every  season.  The  border  on  the  east  side  of  the  house  is 
quite  shaded,  and  consequently  is  planted  with  shade-loving  plants,  prin- 
cipally native  ferns,  with  groups  of  native  cypripediums,  trilliums, 
lilies-of-the-valley,  tiarellas,  and  a  large  group  of  Lilium  lancifolium  at  the 
end  of  the  border  where  there  is  the  most  light.  The  garden  back  of 
the  house  is  almost  fifty  feet  square,  but  one  side  is  perhaps  sixty  feet  on 
account  of  the  shape  of  the  house.  This  garden  is  completely  inclosed 
by  a  border,  except  where  it  is  broken  by  the  necessary  path.  This 
border  commences  west  of  the  kitchen  porch  steps,  and  follows  the  line  of 
the  house  until  it  reaches  the  division  between  the  front  and  back  gardens; 
it  then  crosses  to  the  hedge,  which  it  follows,  so  that  there  is  a  flower  bor- 
der in  front  of  all  the  hedge  back  of  the  line  of  the  house.  This  border  is 
five  feet  wide  except  on  the  west  side  of  the  lot,  where  the  entire  space, 


28  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

about  seven  feet,  is  taken  up,  except  a  narrow  border  of  grass  between- 
the  shrubs  and  the  walk.  This  space  is  planted  with  fifty  hardy  roses, 
mostly  hybrid  perpetuals,  in  thirty  of  the  best  varieties.  In  front  of 
these  roses  is  planted  a  narrow  border,  about  ten  inches  wide,  of  various 
narcissi;  among  the  roses  gladioli  are  planted  every  spring.  The 
remainder  of  the  border  is  planted  with  herbaceous  plants  in  groups,  with 
a  selection  that  secures  a  succession  of  bloom.  This  selection  includes 
columbines,  Japanese  anemones,  irises,  lilies,  peonies,  German  irises, 
Hf Kan  thus  l<etiflorus,  Coreopsis  lanceolata,  gaillardias,  Rudbeckia  hirta,  hardy 
asters,  campanulas,  phloxes,  delphiniums,  and  Heuchera  sanguinea.  In 
front  of  these  is  a  narrow  border  of  tulips,  narcissi,  millas,  etc.,. 
which  is  carpeted  with  Phlox  subulata.  Room  is  also  found  for  some  sweet 
peas,  Phlox  Drummoudii,  and  nasturtiums. 

(Placing  a  border  of  hardy  plants  in  front  of  a  hedge  is  one  of  the 
most  effective  arrangements  that  can  be  made,  but  for  cultural  results 
about  the  worst,  as  the  roots  of  the  hedge  rob  the  plants  of  needed  suste- 
nance. This  difficulty  is  easily  overcome,  however,  by  placing  a  sunk  par- 
tition, say  two  feet  deep,  of  two-inch  oak  planks  between  the  hedge  and 
the  border.) 

The  kitchen  porch  of  this  house  is  covered  with  honeysuckles  and 
clematis  and  the  brick  walls  with  Ampelopsis  Veitchi.  At  one  corner  of 
the  house  is  planted  a  Chinese  wistaria,  which  is  trained  upon  a  single 
wire  to  the  top  of  the  house  and  then  along  the  eaves.  The  neces- 
sary, but  usually  unsightly,  posts  for  the  clothes-line  are  converted  into 
a  charming  feature  of  the  garden  in  this  way :  For  the  posts,  locust 
saplings  about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  with  the  branches  shortened  back 
to  five  or  six  feet,  have  been  used;  these  are  covered  with  Japanese 
honeysuckle,  trumpet  creeper,  and  Clematis  paniculata,  one  over  each  of 
three  posts ;  and  golden  honeysuckle  and  Clematis  Jackmani  together 
on  the  other.  As  the  space  for  flowering  shrubs  is  extremely  limited, 
only  the  choicest  are  used  —  a  Magnolia  stellata  and  a  red-leaved  Jap- 
anese maple  in  the  front  garden,  and  a  Magnolia  Soulangeana,  a  Mag- 
nolia conspicua,  and  a  Japanese  snowball  in  the  back  garden.  The 
magnolias  will  in  time  become  too  large  for  the  garden,  but  it  will  not 
be  for  many  years,  and  the  owner  is  content,  for  the  sake  of  their  great 
beauty,  to  cut  them  out  and  replace  them  with  smaller  ones  when  he  must. 

In  addition  to  all  this  planting,  the  lawn  is  filled  with  crocuses, 
scillas,  and  snowdrops, — a  very  pleasing  way  of  using  them. 


JAPANESE    IRIS 


30  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

This  garden  is  the  most  effective,  beautiful,  and  interesting  in  the 
neighborhood,  yet  is  made  on  a  lot  usually  considered  too  small  to 
have  gardening  possibilities.  It  cost  more  than  most  gardens  of  this 
size,  but  it  is  complete ;  nothing  more  need  be  bought.  On  the  con- 
trary, the  overflow  of  the  natural  increase  is  brightening  the  gardens 
of  neighbors  and  friends.  This  garden  has  also  privacy,  which  I  hold 
is  as  desirable  in  a  garden  as  it  is  in  the  living-rooms  of  the  house. 

Suburban  lots  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  frontage,  and  from 
that  to  an  acre  or  two  acres  in  extent,  are  popular  sizes  in  this  country. 
Such  lots  admit  of  a  combination  border  made  with  hardy  shrubs  and 
plants  —  one  of  the  most  attractive  ways  in  which  they  can  be  used. 
Such  a  border  will  vary,  of  course,  in  size,  shape,  and  formation,  with 
the  requirements  of  individual  places,  and  must  be  designed  to  suit 
them;  but  let  us  suppose  a  lot  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  frontage 
and  two  hundred  feet  depth,  with  an  eastern  exposure.  The  house  is 


CROCUSES   NATURALIZED   IN    OPEN   WOODS 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


placed  midway  in  the  lot  and  only 
far  enough  away  from  the  northern 
boundary  to  permit  of  a  screen  of 
planting.  It  is  common  to  place 
the  house  as  nearly  in  the  center 
of  the  lot  as  possible,  but  it  is  a 
mistake,  for  such  a  location  reduces 
the  size  of  the  lawn  and  the  gar- 
dening possibilities  greatly.  We 
would  occupy  the  entire  southern 
and  western  boundaries  of  the  lot, 
and  perhaps  a  portion  of  the  east- 
ern, with  the  border,  which  should 
vary  in  width  from  five  or  six  feet 
up  to  twenty  feet,  with  a  curved 
outline  on  the  lawn.  This  border 
should  be  planted  principally  with 
shrubs  arranged  in  groups,  but  a 
few  trees,  such  as  birches,  magnolias 
and  Judas  trees,  should  be  used, 
and  a  few  evergreens,  such  as  reti- 
nosporas,  and  quite  a  number  of 
evergreen  shrubs.  Where  a  great 
variety  of  hardy  plants  is  desired 
the  entire  margin  of  this  border 
might  be  filled  with  them,  but  a 
more  effective  arrangement  is  to 
plant  them  in  bold  groups, —  one 
variety  in  a  group, —  and  alternate 
them  with  groups  of  shrubs.  Some 
of  the  stronger-growing  plants,  such 
as  sunflowers,  foxgloves,  and  single 
hollyhocks,  might  be  placed  in  the 
middle  or  back  part  of  the  border, 
and  the  Japanese  lilies  —  auratum, 
rubrum,  and  album — and  our  Ameri- 
can species,  superbum,  can  always 
be  planted  in,  and  combined  to  ad- 


32  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

vantage  with  groups  of  rhododendrons  and  azaleas.  After  such  a  border 
is  completely  planted  with  shrubs  and  hardy  plants  there  will  be  many 
opportunities  for  introducing  colonies  of  spring-flowering  bulbs  —  tulips, 
narcissi,  etc. —  and  the  advantage  of  using  bulbs  in  this  way  is  that  the 
planting  is  permanent  and  that  they  are  really  more  effective  than  in 
formal-shaped  beds  cut  out  of  the  lawn.  It  is  the  intention  to  keep 
this  border  in  a  cultivated  condition,  free  from  weeds  and  grass,  and 
to  give  an  annual  mulching  of  manure.  A  lot  of  this  size,  planted  so 
densely  on  its  boundary,  should  have  its  lawn  kept  quite  free  and  open 
and  have  only  a  few  choice  specimens  planted  on  it,  and  no  large  trees, 
except  street  trees  on  the  edge  of  the  sidewalk. 

I  do  not  claim  that  this  is  the  most  artistic  arrangement  that  can  be 
made  for  a  small  suburban  place.  I  have  in  mind  a  most  artistic  place 
that  is  almost  inclosed  by  a  quite  narrow  planting  of  ordinary  trees  and 
shrubs,  with  a  mass  of  trees  back  of  the  house  and  a  single  magnificent 
specimen  tree  on  the  front  lawn.  This  is  a  satisfactory  arrangement,  as  an 
example  of  fine  architecture  is  satisfactory,  but  all  the  variety,  interest,  and 
pleasure  of  gardening  is  lost. 

In  larger  grounds,  where  a  vegetable  garden  and  perhaps  an  orchard 
are  features,  the  opportunities  for  using  hardy  shrubs  and  plants  are  much 
greater  and  more  varied.  The  vegetable  garden  may  be  made  the  most 
interesting  and  delightful  place  imaginable.  Usually  it  is  simply  a  field  of 
vegetables,  fully  exposed  from  all  points  of  the  ground  and  very  often 
unsightly.  Now,  the  vegetable  garden  should  be  concealed  from  the  lawn 
and  house;  and  this  necessity  at  once  suggests  a  border,  or  boundary 
planting,  of  shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants  as  described  for  the  smaller 
suburban  lot.  This  planting  should  not  only  hide  the  garden  but  should 
hide  its  outlines,  which  are  usually  rectangular.  The  garden  itself  should 
be  inclosed  with  a  hedge,  which  should  show  from  the  inside  of  the  garden 
but  never  from  the  lawn.  California  privet  makes  a  very  satisfactory 
garden  hedge,  but  where  that  is  not  hardy,  hemlock  spruce  can  be  used. 
Nothing  makes  a  finer  hedge  than  this,  but  it  is  slower  growing  than  the 
privet,  of  which  I  have  seen  a  perfect  hedge  five  feet  high  made  in  three 
seasons,  starting  with  two-year-old  plants.  A  convenient  walk  from  the 
house  should  pass  through  the  shrubbery  into  the  garden,  and  of  course  a 
convenient  entrance  will  be  made  for  bringing  in  manure,  etc.  A  walk 
should  be  laid  out  all  around  the  garden  five  to  six  feet  wide,  with  a  six- 
foot  border  for  flowers  between  the  walk  and  the  hedge.  There  should 


34  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

be  also  two  walks,  six  feet  wide,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles  and 
dividing  the  garden  into  four  rectangular  pieces  of  about  equal  size.  On 
both  sides  of  these  walks,  grapes,  dwarf  pears,  and  small  fruits  can  be 
planted,  and  also  on  the  inner  sides  of  the  outer  walk  if  desired.  The 
walks  can  be  made  of  any  material  that  is  convenient,  and  need  not  be 
expensive.  In  one  garden  that  I  know,  they  are  made  of  grass  and  kept 
as  a  lawn  would  be.  I  know  that  there  are  objections  that  can  be  urged 
against  grass  walks,  but  the  owner  of  the  garden  in  question  does  not 
find  them  objectionable,  and  they  are  certainly  more  pleasing  to  the  eye 
than  gravel  walks.  The  border  between  the  walk  and  the  hedge  should 
be  given  up  entirely  to  flowers ;  hardy  plants  should  predominate,  but 
there  should  be  liberal  spaces  reserved  for  summer-blooming  bulbs  and 
annuals.  In  the  hardy  plants  each  variety  should  be  grouped  and  as 
many  sorts  used  as  thought  desirable,  but  in  making  a  selection  flowers 
suitable  for  cutting,  as  well  as  for  making  a  garden  effect,  should  be 
preferred.  Such  bold  and  striking  plants  as  single  hollyhocks  and  fox- 
gloves should  be  planted  in-  decided  masses,  and  a  border  with  eastern 
or  southern  exposure  should  be  used  for  hybrid  perpetual  roses. 

A  vegetable  garden,  arranged  as  described  and  properly  cared  for, 
in  addition  to  being  an  interesting  and  pleasant  place  to  visit,  would 
furnish  an  abundant  supply  of  cut-flowers  for  the  house,  for  the  church, 
for  the  hospital,  and  for  friends;  and  I  think  one  of  the  keenest  pleas- 
ures a  garden  can  afford  is  the  ability  to  give  away  flowers  without  stint. 
The  garden  of  hardy  flowers  enables  one  to  give  away  plants  as  well 
as  flowers,  for  the  natural  increase  soon  makes  a  surplus. 

In  large  grounds  there  are  often  opportunities  for  using  hardy 
plants  and  shrubs  in  a  freer  and  more  picturesque  way  than  any  I  have 
suggested ;  that  is,  the  planting  of  them  in  groups  and  masses  to  pro- 
duce the  same  effects  as  if  they  were  growing  wild.  Indeed,  after  the 
first  careful  planting,  they  should  be  allowed  to  grow  wild,  without  cul- 
ture and  uncontrolled.  The  naturalizing  of  hardy  material  does  not 
mean  that  we  should  attempt  to  imitate  the  thickets,  woods,  or  meadows 
on  our  lawns.  It  does  mean  the  taking  advantage  of  a  brookside  for 
groups  and  colonies  of  irises,  narcissi,  hardy  ferns,  the  splendid 
Lillum  superbum,  and  the  scores  of  beautiful  things  that  will  thrive  in 
the  grass  if  it  is  not  to  be  cut  with  the  lawn-mower.  It  means  the 
planting  of  an  irregular  group  of  foxgloves  on  the  edge  of  a  wood,  or 
the  covering  of  a  rough  bank  with  a  mass  of  kalmias  or  native  azaleas 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


35 


or  native  rhododendrons,  or  with  all  of  these  shrubs  together.  It  means 
increasing  the  beauty  and  interest  of  wild  and  rough  parts  of  a  place 
a  hundred-fold,  but  considerable  taste  and  knowledge  of  materials  are 
needed  to  produce  good  results. 

We    must    not    overlook   the    claims    of    climbing    shrubs    and    plants 


DOG'S-TOOTH    VIOLETS 

to  our  consideration.  No  gardening  scheme,  large  or  small,  should 
ignore  them.  We  can  imagine  a  most  delightful  garden  where  they,  in 
connection  with  trees  and  shrubbery,  alone  are  used  ;  and,  if  we  consider 
their  decorative  effect,  foliage,  gracefulness  of  growth,  and  the  great 
beauty  of  flowers  that  many  of  them  have,  we  must  admit  that  they  are 
entitled  to  a  more  important  place  in  our  gardens.  The  free  use  of  the 
clematis  family  alone  would  give  a  thousand-fold  more  beauty  than  is 


36  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

obtainable  with  the  most  lavish  use  of  bedding  plants;  and  here  we  not 
only  consider  the  large-flowered  type  but  the  smaller-flowered  sorts  as 
well,  with  their  luxuriance  of  growth  and  their  charming  effect  when  used 
as  tree,  shrub,  hedge,  or  fence  drapery.  And  then  the  climbing  roses  — 
what  a  glorious  possibility  here,  with  their  showers  of  bloom  in  June  ! 

Climbers  will  not  exhibit  their  best  charms  if  trained  in  a  stiff  and 
formal  manner;  they  must,  in  whatever  position  used,  be  allowed  to  grow 
untrammeled.  My  neighbor's  garden  furnished  a  good  illustration  of  this. 
He  planted  common  morning-glories  all  about  his  porch,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  training  them  on  strings  later;  but  he  was  diverted  from  his  inten- 
tion and  the  morning-glories  were  allowed  to  grow  as  they  would.  The 
effect  was  most  charming;  they  clambered  over  every  shrub  they  could 
reach,  shared  a  trellis  with  a  clematis,  and,  where  they  could  find  nothing 
to  climb  on,  formed  mounds  of  green  of  the  most  tangled  and  pleasing 
description.  Morning-glories,  common  as  they  are,  if  used  rightly,  pro- 
duce the  most  delightful  effects.  One  of  the  right  ways  is  to  sow  them 
among  tall  grass,  or  among  low  bushes  and  shrubbery;  and  as  they  renew 
themselves  annually  from  seed  they  may  properly  be  considered  hardy. 
As  a  rule,  vines  should  not  be  trained  in  a  formal  manner.  If  you  would 
have  them  exhibit  their  best  graces  they  must  be  allowed  to  grow  uncon- 
trolled. All  know  the  uses  that  vines  are  commonly  put  to — that  of  cov- 
ering the  walls  of  the  house,  furnishing  shade  for  porch  or  arbor,  and  the 
covering  of  screens  and  trellises.  Besides  these,  almost  every  place  of  any 
size  offers  opportunities  for  their  growth  in  a  freer  and  more  natural  way 
that  will  greatly  add  to  the  charm  and  delight  of  the  garden.  Perhaps  a 
neglected  shrubbery,  unsightly  in  itself,  will  afford  support  for  such  easily 
grown  things  as  honeysuckles,  Clematis  Virglniana  and  C.Flammula;  or 
the  common  wild  morning-glory,  so  plentiful  in  many  places,  would  be 
quite  at  home  here.  An  unsightly  fence  might  be  partly  concealed  and 
made  a  thing  of  beauty  with  climbing  roses,  honeysuckles,  or  clematises ; 
or  an  old  tree,  past  its  prime  and  beginning  to  be  unsightly,  would  be  the 
very  thing  on  which  to  grow  such  vigorous  vines  as  the  aristolochia, 
•wistaria,  trumpet  vine,  and  the  common  Virginia  creeper.  In  how 
many  places  are  seen  evergreens  in  a  half-dead  condition,  which  only  pro- 
crastination has  spared  from  the  axe,  and  as  unsightly  as  could  well  be ; 
but  nothing  could  be  better  on  which  to  grow  the  large-flowered 
clematis,  which  furnishes  a  profusion  of  lovely  bloom  that  no  words  can 
describe.  Some  vines,  like  the  golden  honeysuckle,  planted  in  the  grass, 


IRIS   SIBIRICA 

will  pile  themselves  up  in  masses,  and  if  any  shrub  is  within  reach  will 
clamber  over  it,  producing  an  effect  entirely  pleasing.  There  is  nothing 
more  charming  in  nature  than  the  combination  of  shrub  or  tree  with  wild 
vines.  Who  has  not  seen  the  living  canopy  of  green  formed  by  the  wild 
grape  over  the  top  of  some  tree  or  the  stronger-growing  shrubs,  or  how 
some  wild  vine  converts  a  thicket  of  brambles  and  an  old  fence  into 
objects  of  beauty  that  the  most  ambitious  gardener  might  copy? 

It  is  not  possible  to  name  all  of  the  desirable  hardy  shrubs  and 
plants  now  obtainable;  but  I  think  it  is  well  to  give  a  list  of  what  I 
would  commend  as  the  very  best,  taking  into  consideration  their  ease  of 
culture,  as  well  as  the  beauty  of  their  bloom,  form,  and  foliage.  I  know 
many  would  disagree  with  me  as  to  the  contents  of  this  list,  but  I  am 
confident  that  the  beginner  could  make  no  mistake  in  including  any 
or  all  of  the  varieties  named  in  this  planting  list.  I  have  tried  to  name 
these  plants  and  shrubs  somewhat  in  the  order  they  hold  in  my  esteem ; 
but  this  is  a  difficult  matter,  as  I  am  very  apt  to  think  the  finest  thing 
to  be  the  last  fine  thing  that  I  have  seen. 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


Hybrid     perpetual    roses     in 

variety,  including 
Mrs.  John  Laing, 
Paul  Neyron, 
Ulrich  Brunner, 
Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet, 
General  Jacqueminot, 
Anne  de  Diesbach, 
Magna  Charta, 
Baroness  Rothschild, 
Captain  Christy,  and 
Clio, 

Anemone  Japonica  alba, 

Anemone  Pennsylvania, 

Single  hollyhocks, 

Japanese  irises, 

Lllium  auratum, 

Rudbeckia  speciosa, 

Rudbeckia,  Golden  Glow, 

Aquilegias  in  variety, 

Yucca  filantentosa, 

Paonia  f estiva  maxima, 

Herbaceous    peonies  —  single 
and  double,  in  variety, 

Lilium  speciosum, 

Helianthus  orgyalis, 

Helianthus  mollis  grandiflorus, 

Helianthus  Maximiliani, 

Helianthus  Itetiflorus, 

foxgloves, 

Phlox,  Miss  Lingard, 

Tall      perennial      phloxes     in 
variety, 


LIST   OF   PLANTS 

Delphiniums  in  variety, 

German  irises, 

Aster  Nova-Anglite  roseus, 

Chrysanthemums  —  old  -  fash- 
ioned hardy  sorts, 

Iberis  sempervirens, 

Lilium    superbum, 

Lilium  Canadense, 

Lilium  Hansom, 

Lilium   'Brownii, 

Lilium  excelsum, 

Lilium     Thunbergianum    in    va- 
riety, 

Lilium  tigrinum, 

Lilium  tigrinum  fl.  pi., 

Lilium    Krameri, 

Phlox  subulata  and  the  variety 
alba, 

Phlox  divaricata, 

Phlox  Carolina, 

Phlox  reptans, 

Pyrethrum  uliginosum, 

Sedum  spectabile, 

^Doronicum  plantagineum  excel- 
sum, 

Gaillardias, 

Oriental  poppies, 

Tree  peonies, 

Eulalia  Japonica  gracillima, 

Funkia  Sieboldiana, 

Funkia  subcordata 

Funkia   cucullata, 

Funkia   ceerulea, 


Funkia  variegata, 
Arundo  Donax, 
Hibiscus  Moscheutos, 
Heuchera  sanguinea, 
Pyrethrum   roseum — single  and 

double  varieties, 
Spiraa  palm  at  a, 
Spiraa  Filipendula, 
Spiraa  Aruncus, 
Spiraa  lobata, 
Tiarella  cordifolia, 
Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens, 
Helianthus  rigidus, 
Campanula  turbinata, 
Platycodon  Mariesi, 
Viola  cornuta, 
Cypripedium  spectabile, 
Native  ferns  in  variety, 
Thalictrum  aquilegifolium, 
Liatris  pycnostachya, 
Tritoma  Pfitzerii, 
Tritoma  in  variety, 
Polyanthus, 
English  primrose, 
Asclepias  tuberosa, 
Hemerocallis  flava, 
Hemerocallis  Thunbergii, 
Hemerocallis  aurantiaca  major, 
Hemerocallis  fulva, 
Bocconia  in  variety, 
Monarda  didyma, 
Pentstemon  Torreyi, 
Lythrum  roseum. 


SPRING -FLOWERING    BULBS 


Narcissus,  Tricolor  Horsfieldii, 
Narcissus,  Poet's, 
Narcissus,  Emperor, 
Narcissus,  Van  Sion, 
Narcissus  alba  plena  odorata, 
Narcissus,   Golden  Spur, 
Narcissus,  Trumpet  Major, 
Narcissus,  fBicolor  Empress, 


Narcissus    incomparabilis    alba 

Stella, 

Narcissus,  ISarri  conspicuus, 
Narcissus,  Sir  Watkin, 
Tulips,  Early-flowering  single, 
Tulips,     Gesneriana  —  late- 
flowering  single, 
Tulips,  Late-flowering, 
Tulips,   Show, 


Tulips,  May-blooming, 
Tulips,  Parrot, 
Tulips   in  variety, 
Milla  uniflora, 
Crocuses  in  variety, 
S cilia  Sibirica, 
Scillas  in  variety, 
Single  snowdrops. 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


39 


Clematis  paniculata, 
Clematis  Henryi, 
Clematis  Vitalba, 
Clematis  coccinea, 
Clematis  hybrids, 
Ampelopsis  Veitchi, 
Lonicera  Halliana, 
Clematis  Jackmani, 
Purple  Chinese  wistaria, 
Clematis  Virginiana, 
Clematis  Flammula, 


Kalmia  latifolia, 
Rhododendrons,   Catawbiense 

hybrids, 

Rhododendron  maximum. 
Rhododendron  Cataivbiense, 
Magnolia  stellata, 
Ghent  and  Mollis  azaleas, 
Japan  maples  in  four  varieties 

— sanguineum,    aureum,    dis- 

sectum,    and     dissectum    atro- 

purpureum, 
Hydrangea  paniculata    grandi- 

flora, 

Hydrangea  paniculata, 
Hydrangea   radiata, 
Japan  snowball, 
Lilacs  in  variety, 
Tamarix  tetranda, 
Tamarix  Chinensis, 
*Berberis  Thunbergii, 
Forsythia  suspensa, 
Exochorda  grandiflora, 
Desmodium  penduliflorum, 
Spiraea  Lindleyana, 
Spir&a  Reevesiana, 
Spirtfa  Reevesiana  ft.  pi., 
Spirea,  Anthony  Waterer, 
Spiraa  Bumalda, 


CLIMBERS 

Trumpet  creeper, 

Golden  Japan  honeysuckle, 

Crimson  Rambler  rose, 

Rambler  Rose,  Helene, 

Rose,  W.  C.  Egan. 

T(osa   IVichuraiana, 

T^psa   Wichura'iana  rubra, 

Aristolochia  Sipho, 

T^osa  multiflora, 

Akebia  quinata, 

fBignonia   radicans, 

SHRUBS 

Spiraa   Thunbergii, 

Spircea  prunifolia  fl.  pi., 

Spiraa  sor  hi  folia, 

Rhus  aromatica, 

Clethra  alnifolia, 

Cercis  Japonicum, 

Sambucus  Canadensis, 

Sambucus  pubens, 

Halesia  tetraptera, 

Viburnum  dilatatum, 

Viburnum  oxycoccus, 

Viburnum  dentatum, 

Azalea   calendulacea, 

Azalea  arborescens, 

Azalea  nudiflora, 

Azalea  Vaseyi, 

Spiraa   Van  Houttei, 

Spir&a  arguta, 

Rosa  rugosa, 

Rosa  setigera, 

Rosa  spinosissima, 

Rosa  Carolina, 

Rosa  arvensis, 

Altheas,    dwarf   single  white, 

Buist's      variegated,     and 

double  varieties, 
Japan  quince, 
'Deutzia  crenata  fl.  pi., 
Deutzia  gracilis, 


cB\gnon\a  grandiflora, 
Celastrus  scandens, 
Celastrus  paniculatus  , 
Euonymus  radicans, 
Euonymus  radicans  variegatus, 
Polygonum  'Baldschuanicum, 
Vitis  odorata, 
Lonicera  Heckrotti, 
Lonicera  fuchsioides, 
Actinidia  arguta. 
'Serchemia   racemosa. 


'Deutzia  Lemoinei, 
Hydrangea  quercifolia, 
Philadelphus  coronarius, 
Philadelphus  Avalanche, 
Philadelphus  erectus, 
Weigela  rosea, 

Weigela  rosea  nana  variegata, 
Weigela,  Eva  Rathke, 
Weigela,  Conquete, 
Weigela,  Saturne, 
Weigela,  Lavellei, 
Weigela,  Abel  Carriere, 
Weigela  Candida, 
Forsythia  Fortunei, 
Golden  Eld'r, 
Andromeda  Japonica, 
Andromeda  floribunda, 
Andromeda  arborea, 
Elaagnus  longipes, 
Snowberries,  white  and   red, 
Prunus  maritima, 
Prunus  Pissardi, 
Hypericum  aureum, 
Ligustrum  Ibota, 
Upright  honeysuckles, 
Xanthoceras  sorbifolia, 
Mahonia  aquifolium, 
Leucothoe  Catesbai. 


4o 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


I  have  placed  hardy  roses  at  the  head  of  the  list  of  plants,  although 
they  are  really  shrubs,  but  they  belong  in  the  flower  garden  and  not 
in  the  shrubbery.  None  will  dispute  their  right  to  the  place  of  honor; 
but,  notwithstanding  the  universal  admiration  that  is  expressed  for  them, 
they  are  grown  in  but  comparatively  few  gardens.  It  requires  consid- 
erable effort  to  have  them  in  perfection,  but  the  results  amply  reward 
the  labor.  I  cannot  go  into  cultural  directions;  but  I  wish  to  say,  and 
with  considerable  emphasis,  that  in  my  experience  in  growing  roses, 
which  has  been  as  an  amateur,  I  have  found  roses  on  their  own  roots 
much  more  satisfactory  than  budded  plants. 

I    know   that   Japanese    irises    and    a    dozen    other    herbaceous    plants 

have  as  strong  claims  perhaps  for 
consideration  as  the  white  Japanese 
anemone,  which  has  my  unqualified 
admiration.  It  has  so  many  good 
qualities — individual  beauty  of  flow- 
ers; great  effectiveness  in  the  gar- 
den, shrubbery,  or  border ;  good 
foliage  at  all  seasons  ;  a  long  sea- 
son of  bloom,  and  flowers  that  will 
endure  a  degree  of  frost  that 
destroys  almost  everything  else. 
Its  only  limitation  is  that  it  will 
not  thrive  in  light,  sandy  soil,  but 
in  a  heavy,  rich  soil  it  grows  with 
great  vigor.  I  have  often  seen  it 
five  feet  high,  and  that,  too,  in 
places  where  it  had  been  natural- 
ized and  received  no  attention 
after  planting. 

Why  is  it  that  single  hollyhocks 
are  not  offered  for  sale  or  grown  by 
nurserymen  and  plantsmen  ?  Surely 
they  are  the  most  stately,  pictur- 
esque, and  decorative  herbaceous 
plants  in  cultivation,  and  I  have 
IMPERIALS  never  met  anybody  who  did  not 

Sh,vine   e«ect   of   growth   when    cut   to   the    .round 


PYRETHRUM    ROSEUM 

I  know,  they  cannot  be  bought  —  not  even  the  seed.  The  single  sorts 
are  always  very  much  finer  than  the  highly  cultivated  double  sorts,  whose 
culture  has  been  made  difficult  of  late  on  account  of  the  hollyhock  dis- 
ease. On  the  contrary,  the  single  varieties  are  of  the  easiest  culture,  and 
once  established  will  take  care  of  themselves  in  almost  any  location. 

Equally  neglected  are  the  old-fashioned  and  really  hardy  chrysanthe- 
mums, which  are  still  to  be  found  in  an  occasional  garden.  I  know 
these  chrysanthemums  would  cut  but  a  poor  figure  at  exhibitions  and 
in  florists'  windows,  but  they  have  far  more  gardening  value  than  all 
the  hundreds  of  new  varieties  introduced  in  the  last  few  years,  which  can 
only  be  grown  in  perfection  by  the  skilful  florist  or  by  the  amateur 
who  has  all  the  facilities  of  the  florist. 

The  numerous  fine  exhibitions  of  chrysanthemums  every  fall  are 
very  enjoyable,  but  I  fail  to  see  that  they  have  helped  gardening  any, 
except  that  of  a  very  limited  class.  On  the  contrary,  outdoor  gardening 
has  been  retarded  by  the  disappointment  of  thousands  of  people  who 
have  tried  to  grow  the  exhibition  pets  in  their  gardens. 


44 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


In  a  recent  number  of  "Garden  and  Forest,"  Mr.  Gerard  has  very 
properly  called  attention  to  the  possible  field  of  the  hybridizer  in  improv- 
ing really  hardy  chrysanthemums  for  garden  purposes;  and  in  a  later 
number  a  writer  takes  exceptions  to  his  remarks,  claiming  that  the 
flowers  are  always  damaged  by  frost  and  that  their  habit  is  straggling 
and  poor  as  compared  with  the  improved  greenhouse  varieties. 

Now,  I  think  we  have  all  seen  chrysanthemums  in  farmhouse  yards 
and  village  gardens  that  have  endured  for  years,  and  that  have,  with- 
out any  special  culture,  produced  an  annual  mass  of  very  satisfactory 
flowers  and  foliage;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  flowers  of  these 
sorts  will  go  through  considerable  frost  and  snow  without  tarnishing. 

These  chrysanthemums  are  certainly  useful  material  for  the  hybridizer, 
but  for  the  present  we  shall  be  very  well  satisfied  if  some  enterprising 
nurserymen  will  collect  from  old  gardens  such  varieties  as  now  exist  and 
give  us  the  opportunity  of  using  them  in  our  gardens. 

Before    I    conclude    I    wish    to    give   a    special  word    of    praise  to   my 


BED    OF   SWEET   WILLIAMS 


46 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


favorite  shrub,  Kalmia  latifolia,  which  is  known  in  Pennsylvania,  where  it  is 
very  common  in  the  woods,  as  the  small-leaved  mountain  laurel.  It  is 
greatly  admired  as  a  wild  flower,  and  an  occasional  unsuccessful  attempt  is 
made  to  transplant  it  from  the  woods;  but  nurserymen  have  made  no 
attempt  to  introduce  it  into  general  culture,  and  it  is  somewhat  curious 
that  it  is  necessary  to  send  to  England  to  get  fine  specimens  of  this  dis- 
tinctively American  plant.  Excepting  odor,  it  has  every  good  quality  that 
a  shrub  can  have — evergreen  foliage  and  good  habit,  great  quantity  of 
durable  bloom,  extreme  daintiness  and  beauty  of  individual  flowers,  and 
usefulness  as  cut-flowers.  If  the  flowers  are  cut  just  as  the  buds  are  about 
to  open,  and  placed  in  water,  they  will  last  for  two  weeks  in  the  house,  and 
if  arranged  with  taste  nothing  is  more  decorative. 

In  one  of  his  books,  Donald  G.  Mitchell  suggests  that  the  kalmia 
would  probably  make  an  excellent  hedge.  I  have  never  seen  it  tried,  but  I 
am  confident  that  it  would — perhaps  as  fine  as  the  holly  hedges  in  England, 


HEMLOCK    HEDGE 


BLACK    SPRUCE    IN    THE   ARNOLD   ARBORETUM,    BOSTON 

and,  with  a  little  discretion  in  trimming,  a  hedge  of  it  could  be  made  to 
produce  a  fine  crop  of  bloom  at  least  every  other  season. 

With  nursery-grown  plants  to  start  with,  the  kalmia  is  of  the  easiest 
culture,  requiring  no  special  soil  or  location,  and  it  is  perfectly  hardy. 
Like  all  evergreen  shrubs,  it  should  be  transplanted  in  the  spring. 

All  the  hardy  plants  I  have  named,  with  two  or  three  exceptions,  will 
thrive  with  ordinary  garden  culture,  and  some  of  them  without  any  atten- 
tion after  planting ;  but,  as  they  are  usually  planted  where  they  are  to 
remain  for  years,  it  would  be  well  to  make  the  initial  preparation  of  the 
soil  for  them  a  liberal  one.  I  usually  specify  that  borders  for  hardy  plants 
should  have  two  feet  of  good,  friable  soil,  mixed  with  one-fourth  its  bulk 


48  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

of  rotted  stable  manure,  and  that  they  should  be  prepared  in  late  summer 
or  fall,  the  planting  to  be  done  in  the  fall  and  the  following  spring.  Fall 
planting  is  not  recommended  for  everything;  my  experience  is  that  many 
plants  are  winter-killed  after  fall  planting  that  would  be  quite  hardy  it 
they  had  the  benefit  of  a  growing  season  to  establish  themselves.  Of 
course  special  plants  require  special  treatment ;  for  instance,  the  bulbs  of 


HOME    OF  AN    ENGLISH    COTTAGER 


the  Lilium  auratum  should  not  come  in  direct  contact  with  manure,  and  the 
fine  double  and  single  varieties  of  Pyrethrum  roseum  should  be  planted  in 
beds  raised  a  few  inches,  to  prevent  their  rotting  out  in  cold,  wet  weather. 
I  would  advise  the  same  liberal  preparation  of  the  soil  for  shrubs  that 
I  do  for  hardy  plants,  though  in  many  instances  the  expense  would  be  pro- 
hibitory, or  thought  so ;  but  in  any  event  I  should  insist  on  the  ground 
being  subsoiled  or  trenched  and  a  liberal  application  of  manure  being  made. 
An  annual  mulching  of  manure  is  beneficial  to  shrubs  and  hardy  plants. 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS  49 

I  have  had  a  somewhat  extended  experience  with  rhododendrons,  and 
my  opinion  of  the  proper  soil  to  grow  them  in  may  be  worth  something. 
Their  beauty  is  now  pretty  generally  known  and  appreciated,  but  they  are 
popularly  considered  tender  and  difficult  to  grow.  This  is  largely  owing 
to  the  selling  of  improperly  grown  plants  and  tender  varieties,  and  to  late 
fall  planting,  which  is  very  apt  to  be  fatal.  I  have  found  that  when 


HOUSE   AND    GROUNDS    OF   AN   AMERICAN    MILLIONAIRE 

Photograph  taken  twelve  years  after  completion  of  house 

Catawbiense  seedlings,  or  the  well-known  hardy  named  varieties,  grown  on 
their  own  roots  from  layers,  were  planted,  there  was  no  difficulty  in  grow- 
ing them  in  any  ordinary  soil  or  in  any  position,  except  immediately  under 
old-established  trees.  I  have  seen  them  grown  with  peat  and  with  leaf- 
mold,  but  the  best  results  I  have  ever  seen  in  this  country  were  where  an 
excavation  two  and  one-half  feet  deep  had  been  made  for  them  and  filled 
in  entirely  with  turfy,  fibrous  sods,  chopped  up,  and  allowed  to  stand  over 
winter  before  planting.  No  manure  was  mixed  with  the  sods,  but  after  the 


50  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

rhododendrons    were     planted     a    mulching    of    rotted    cow    manure    was 
applied  to  the  surface  of  the  soil. 

It  seems  to  me  I  have  said  a  great  deal  about  the  merit  of  hardy 
plants  and  shrubs,  and  but  very  little  about  their  culture;  but  it  must  be 
remembered  that  my  mind  is  more  occupied  with  the  designing  of  gardens 
than  with  their  care,  and  I  think  it  is  quite  as  important  to  create  an 
interest  in  hardy  material  as  it  is  to  teach  how  to  grow  it.  Cultural  skill 
will  soon  follow  enthusiastic  desire,  which  your  society  is  doing  so  much  to 
create,  and  when  we  can  have  horticultural  societies  of  like  intelligence  and 
breadth  of  object  in  all  our  large  cities  the  advancement  of  the  best 
gardening  will  be  rapid. 

NOTE. — The  plans  illustrated  on  pages  71  to  96,  inclusive  are  intended  to  show  some 
correct  principles  of  arrangement  and  not  to  be  used  for  any  particular  place.  A  plan,  to 
be  worth  anything,  must  be  made  for  the  grounds  for  which  it  is  intended,  and  all  sur- 
roundings and  conditions  must  be  considered. 


SYRINGA   VILLOSA. 


SPECIES    OF   LILAC 


NARCISSUS   POETICUS   IN    GRJSS 


NATURALIZING   HARDY   PLANTS 
AND   BULBS 

HERE  are  two  extremes  of  gardening:  one,  known  as  formal 
gardening,  is  receiving  considerable  attention  at  the  pres- 
ent time  and  is  earnestly  commended  by  many  architects, 
for  the  reason  that  it  is  the  only  possible  garden  of  their 
designing.  The  other  is  wild  gardening,  or  the  arrang- 
ing of  the  hardy  bulbs,  plants  and  shrubs  in  natural 
groups  and  masses  to  simulate  the  effect  of  wild  growth. 
It  has  been  my  fortune  recently  to  see  the  best  two  exam- 
ples in  America  of  these  extremes  of  gardening,  and  both 
were  very  beautiful.  The  formal  garden  was  on  the  grounds 
of  Mr.  Lars  Anderson,  Brookline,  Massachusetts.  The  gar- 
den is  splendid, — so  is  the  expenditure.  It  cost  a  fortune  to 
make  and  a  princely  income  to  maintain.  Such  a  garden  is  possible  to  per- 
haps two  hundred  men  in  this  country,  and  there  are  not  a  score  of  gardeners 
with  sufficient  skill  and  executive  ability  to  maintain  it  successfully.  It  is  a 
garden  of  walls  and  pergolas,  strictly  formal  and  finely  designed,  but  the 
planting — the  most  skilful  I  have  ever  seen — is  largely  informal,  and  this  is 
what  saves  it  from  the  commonplace  ugliness  almost  always  to  be  found  in 


52  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

formal  gardens.  Thousands  of  the  finest  hardy  plants  are  used  with  a  skill 
that  excites  wonder  and  admiration.  Great  masses  of  color  are  maintained 
at  all  times.  This  is  easy  enough  with  bedding-plants,  but  their  use  would 
rob  this  garden  of  all  its  beauty.  To  produce  a  complete  and  continuous 
display  of  bloom  with  hardy  plants,  it  is  necessary  to  grow  thousands  of 
plants  in  an  auxiliary  garden,  so  that  those  that  are  done  blooming  may  be 
replaced  with  ones  that  bloom  later. 

At  West  Manchester,  Massachusetts,  Mrs.  Henry  L.  Higginson  has  a 
garden  of  thirty  or  forty  acres  on  a  rocky  hill  overlooking  the  sea,  and  many 
people  agree  with  me  in  thinking  it  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  gar- 
den in  the  land.  The  natural  growth  of  trees  and  shrubs  is  supplemented 
with  thousands  of  plantings  of  bulbs,  plants  and  shrubs,  all  planted  in  per- 
manent and  natural-looking  groups  and  masses.  There  is  not  a  formal  bed 
or  border  on  the  place,  and  no  walks  except  lovely  grass  ones  which  disap- 
pear among  the  shrubbery  in  every  direction  and  give  access  to  all  parts  of 
the  garden.  Many  people  object  to  grass  walks  on  account  of  their  wetness 
in  the  morning  and  evening  and  after  rain,  but  the  effects  obtained  here  would 
surely  justify  the  use  of  short  skirts  and  rubber  shoes,  or  even  rubber  boots. 
There  is  nothing  on  the  place  which  one  might  call  a  lawn.  There  is  a  little 
open  space  of  shaven  grass  about  the  house,  but  even  this  is  thickly  starred 
with  the  lovely  single  English  daisy,  which  does  not  seem  to  mind  the  lawn- 
mower,  but  serenely  blooms  beneath  its  cutting  blade.  A  steep  declivity 
necessitates  a  terrace  in  front  of  the  house,  but  it  is  roughly  and  unevenly 
built  with  stone  picked  up  on  the  grounds;  every  cranny  is  filled  with  a 
charming  colony  of  flowers  and  numerous  flowering  vines  clamber  over  it, 
and  even  at  the  base  of  the  house  forget-me-nots  and  daisies  spring  up  in 
wild  profusion.  This  garden  is  lovely  and  interesting  beyond  description 
at  all  seasons.  Except  in  winter,  it  has  beautiful  flowers  in  the  greatest  pro- 
fusion. Commencing  with  the  snowdrops  in  March  and  ending  with  chrysan- 
themums in  November,  the  aspect  of  this  garden  constantly  changes.  Every 
day  something  comes  into  bloom — every  day  something  goes  out  of  bloom; 
but  the  arrangement  is  so  perfect  that  there  is  never  any  bare  ground  or 
unseemly  gaps  to  be  seen.  This,  the  finest  garden  I  know  of,  would  not 
have  required  any  attention  whatever  after  planting  if  it  did  not  contain  a 
small  collection  of  rare  Alpine  and  half-hardy  plants.  These  could  be  easily 
replaced  by  perfectly  hardy  plants  and  then  there  would  be  no  cost  for 
maintenance,  except  the  mowing  of  the  grass  walks.  To  describe  this  gar- 
den in  detail  would  exhaust  the  limits  of  this  article,  the  purpose  of  which 


NARCISSUS   POETICUS 


54  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

is  to  give  a  short  list  of  the  material  suitable  for  naturalizing,  with  some 
suggestions  of  arrangements  but;  I  would  strongly  advise  the  designer  of  a 
wild  garden  to  study  with  care  William  Robinson's  delightful  book,  "The 
Wild  Garden." 

The  results  obtained  in  this  garden,  and  scores  of  others  I  have  seen  in 
this  country  and  in  England,  have  convinced  me  that  naturalizing  suitable 
hardy  bulbs,  plants  and  shrubs  is  the  most  beautiful,  interesting,  permanent 
and  least  expensive  style  of  gardening  that  can  be  practiced.  Of  course, 
artistic  results  are  obtained  only  with  considerable  taste,  experience  and 
effort,  but  easy  gardening,  as  to  arrangement,  is  always  poor  gardening. 

Small  city  places  do  not  offer  many  opportunities  for  naturalizing,  but 
some  of  the  spring  flowers  can  be  used  in  this  way  on  the  smallest  lots. 
Snowdrops  and  Scilla  Sibirica  can  be  planted  in  the  grass  of  the  most  closely 
shaven  lawn;  they  are  so  dwarf  and  bloom  so  early  that  the  bulbs  ripen 
perfectly  and  will  continue  to  bloom  year  after  year.  This  is  not  true  of 
crocuses,  which  are  frequently  planted  on  lawns.  If  the  grass  is  mown,  the 
crocuses  must  be  replanted  at  least  every  two  years. 

When  small  bulbs  are  planted  on  lawns,  care  must  be  taken  to  arrange 
them  in  natural-looking  groups.  Often  I  see  crocuses  scattered  over  the 
entire  surface  of  a  lawn,  a  foot  or  two  apart;  the  effect  is  extremely  bad. 
In  naturalizing  bulbs  or  hardy  plants,  each  variety  should  be  held  together 
in  irregular-shaped  groups,  which  should  be  closely  planted  in  the  center 
and  more  thinly  as  the  margin  is  approached.  I  find  it  a  very  good  plan  to 
scatter  all  the  bulbs  to  be  planted  over  the  surface  of  the  ground  before 
planting  any  of  them.  I  stand  in  the  center  of  the  proposed  group,  drop- 
ping some  of  the  bulbs  at  my  feet  and  throwing  others  out  in  every 
direction,  planting  them  where  they  fall.  Circular  groups  should  be 
avoided.  They  may  be  made  of  almost  any  irregular  shape,  but  always 
longer  than  they  are  broad.  The  arrangement  largely  depends  upon  the 
situation;  a  bay  or  recess  in  the  shrubbery  may  be  thickly  and  entirely 
filled  with  one  variety  of  bulbs,  a  sloping  bank  may  be  a  mass  of  narcissi 
or  tulips,  or  an  orchard  in  which  the  grass  is  not  mown  until  after  July 
first  will  afford  opportunities  for  many  groups  and  a  succession  of  bloom 
for  two  months  or  more.  One  of  the  illustrations  shows  a  strip  of  grass 
between  a  pond  and  a  path  completely  filled  with  the  poet's  narcissi.  The 
desirable  arrangements  are  innumerable  and  hard  to  describe,  and  the 
planter  should  study  available  illustrations  and  the  groupings  of  wild 
flowers  in  the  neighborhood. 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


55 


The  great  advantage  of  using  flowering  bulbs  in  this  way  is  that  the 
plantings  are  permanent  and  need  never  be  renewed,  but  increase  in  size 
and  beauty  year  after  year;  which  is  much  more  satisfactory  than  the 
present  annual  waste  of  millions  of  bulbs  used  for  inartistic  beds  on  the 
lawn.  These  bulbs  are  all  destroyed,  as  they  must  be  removed  before  they 
are  ripened  in  order  to  plant  the  undesirable  bedding-plants  which  follow 


ANEMONE    CORONAR1A    AND   DORONICUM 

them.  It  must  always  be  remembered  that  the  foliage  of  bulbs  must  not  be 
cut  off  before  it  has  ripened,  but  this  does  not  prevent  them  from  being 
planted  in  orchards  and  meadows,  as  the  foliage  is  ripened  by  the  time  the 
grass  is  ready  to  cut  for  hay. 

The  only  tool  we  use  in  planting  bulbs  is  a  good,  strong  garden 
trowel,  with  which  a  hole  is  dug  for  each  bulb.  We  cover  spring-flowering 
bulbs,  on  an  average,  with  about  an  inch  and  a  half  of  soil,  and  lilies  are 
planted  about  six  inches  deep.  Years  ago,  when  I  used  to  plant  bulbs 
myself  and  found  that  the  trowel-handle  soon  blistered  my  hands,  I  used  a 


PHLOX    DirARlCATA 

tool  for  planting  bulbs.  It  was  made  by  taking  a  piece  of  brass  or 
wrought-iron  pipe  two  feet  long  and  an  inch  and  a  half  or  two  inches  in 
diameter.  One  end  of  this  was  ground  to  a  sharp  and  cutting  edge;  on 
the  other  end  was  placed  a  fitting  which,  I  believe,  is  called  a  "cross" ;  in 
two  openings  of  this  cross  were  placed  short  pieces  of  pipe  for  handles ;  in  the 
pipe  was  placed  a  round  piece  of  wood,  a  little  smaller  than  the  pipe  and  a 
few  inches  longer,  and  a  nail  was  driven  in  one  end  of  this  to  keep  it  from 
falling  out.  This  tool  was  used  by  pressing  the  sharpened  end  of  the  pipe 
into  the  ground  the  depth  desired  to  plant  the  bulb;  it  was  then  removed, 
and  carried  with  it  a  piece  of  sod  with  the  soil;  the  bulb  was  then  dropped 
into  the  hole,  the  tool  placed  on  top  of  it  and  the  soil  pressed  back  into  the 
hole  by  pushing  the  round  stick.  In  moist  ground  (and  I  always  wait  until 
we  get  sufficient  rain  to  make  it  moist  before  planting),  bulbs  can  be 
planted  very  rapidly.  If  my  memory  serves  me,  I  used  to  plant  three  or 
four  thousand  a  day  with  it.  The  tool  cannot  be  used  in  rough,  hard 
ground.  It  is  extremely  satisfactory  for  planting  bulbs  on  the  lawn,  as  it 
leaves  no  mark  whatever  in  smooth  sod. 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS  57 

Of  the  great  variety  of  spring-flowering  bulbs,  the  daffodils  or  narcissi 
are  the  most  desirable  and  beautiful ;  their  fine  forms  and  coloring 
and  graceful  habit  leave  nothing  to  be  desired,  and  they  are  as  easily  grown 
and  as  much  at  home  in  the  grass  as  dandelions.  Of  course,  the  delicate 
high-priced  sorts  must  not  be  used,  but  there  is  no  lack  of  cheap  sorts  that 
are  entirely  satisfactory.  The  poet's  narcissi  can  be  bought  for  less  than  five 
dollars  per  thousand.  They  are  charming  flowers,  blooming  in  May  after 
almost  all  other  bulbous  flowers  are  gone,  but  sometimes  they  will  not  bloom 
at  all.  A  few  years  ago  my  brother  planted  ten  thousand  for  cut-flowers  and 
got  hardly  a  dozen  flowers  a  year.  After  a  few  years  he  was  disgusted  and 
plowed  them  all  under;  much  to  his  surprise,  they  bloomed  profusely  the 
following  spring.  My  explanation  is  this :  Narcissus  bulbs  do  not  like  a 
wet  soil,  and  the  plowing  of  the  ground  during  the  summer  gave  the  soil 
a  chance  to  dry  out  and  the  bulbs  to  ripen.  Narcissus  poeticus  will  not 


LYTHRUM    SALICIFOLIA 


58  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

bloom  on  my  ground,  which  is  also  wet;  neither  will  Narcissus  alba  plena 
odorata;  but  both  do  well  on  dry  ground  and  are  excellent  for  steep,  stony 
banks  or  for  open  woods  where  the  ground  is  dry.  Narcissus  poeticus  ornatus, 
the  early  variety  of  the  poet's  narcissus,  increases  rapidly  and  blooms 
profusely  every  spring  on  my  ground,  which  is  excessively  wet  in  some 
places.  So  do  Emperor  and  Empress,  Barrii  conspicuus,  Golden  Spur, 
Princeps,  Figaro,  Alba  Stella,  Cynosure,  Sir  Watkin,  Orange  Phoenix  and 
Biflorus,  all  of  which  are  desirable  and  not  too  expensive  to  use  in  quantity 
for  naturalizing.  On  my  own  grounds  I  have  used  some  twenty  thousand 
or  more  of  these  kinds,  and  the  daffodil  season,  which  is  also  the  magnolia 
season,  is  the  most  delightful  in  our  calendar. 

Some  claim  that  tulips  are  not  suitable  for  naturalizing,  and  I  will 
admit  that  the  striped  and  variegated  sorts  are  not  at  home  in  any  natural 
planting;  but  the  self-colored  sorts  are  entirely  fit,  and  what  can  be  finer 
than  those  glorious  late  tulips,  Gesneriana  and  Bouton  d'Or,  blooming  in 
the  tall  grass?  But  they  will  not  do  any  good  in  wet  ground.  I  have 
planted  thousands,  and  they  disappear  entirely  after  the  second  year.  On 
the  contrary,  twenty  years  ago  I  knew  a  florist  who  planted  on  a  stony  hill- 
side thousands  of  exhausted  tulip  bulbs  which  he  had  forced  for  cut- 
flowers.  That  he  would  get  results  from  such  stock  I  thought  extremely 
doubtful,  and  told  him  so.  He  replied  that  it  was  waste  land  and  waste 
bulbs,  and  he  could  afford  to  take  the  chance.  After  a  year  or  two  the 
tulips  commenced  to  bloom  freely,  and  are  still  blooming  every  spring 
among  the  grass  and  weeds,  which  have  vainly  striven  to  choke  them  out. 

The  snowdrops  are  perhaps  the  most  delightful  of  all  bulbs  for  natu- 
ralizing, on  account  of  their  blooming  in  March  before  there  is  a  sign  of  life 
in  wood,  field  or  garden.  They  can  be  planted  on  the  lawn,  but  the  most 
effective  way  of  using  them  is  to  plant  thickly  around  the  trunks  of  trees 
in  open  woods.  As  the  lovely  white  flowers  are  very  small,  the  bulbs  must 
be  planted  thickly  and  by  the  thousand  to  be  effective. 

Equally  charming  is  the  exquisite  blue  Scilla  Sibirica,  which  blooms  a 
little  later;  it  also  requires  close  planting.  Scillas  are  all  good,  especially  the 
varieties  of  S.  campanulata,  which  produce  rather  large  spikes  of  blue,  white 
or  pink  flowers  and  are  among  the  latest  of  the  spring-flowering  bulbs  to 
bloom.  Equal  in  daintiness  are  the  grape  hyacinths  and  the  various  kinds 
of  chionodoxa.  No  one  will  regret  planting  good-sized  masses  of  Chionodoxa 
Lucille,  which  covers  the  ground  early  in  the  spring  with  a  carpet  of  exqui- 
site blue  and  white  K'^om.  Many  of  the  alliums,  some  of  the  fritillarias, 


60  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

the  leucojums,  and  the  ornithogalums  are  also  fine  for  naturalizing;  and 
where  they  are  hardy,  which  is  only  in  warm,  sheltered  situations,  on  thor- 
oughly well  drained  soil,  the  various  varieties  of  Anemone  coronaria  are  lovely 
beyond  description.  Also  charming  are  our  native  dog's-tooth  violets, 
Erythronium  Americanum  (see  page  35),  which  delight  in  a  deep,  wet  soil. 
Another  native  bulb  especially  valuable  for  planting  in  shady  places  is  the 
wood-lily,  or  trillium.  The  best  kind  is  T.  grandiflorum,  and  it  delights  in  a 
moist  soil  and  shaded  situation.  On  a  precipitous  north  and  wooded  hill- 
side across  the  river  from  my  place,  millions  of  them  grow  wild.  When 
they  are  in  bloom  in  April  or  May  no  lovelier  floral  display  can  be  found, 
and  many  garden-lovers  come  from  the  city  to  view  the  show.  Daintier, 
but  not  quite  so  showy,  is  our  bloodroot,  Sanguinaria  Canadensis,  which 
covers  our  steep  southern  hillsides  with  tens  of  thousands  of  its  lovely 
starry  white  flowers  in  March.  Unfortunately,  the  bulbs  are  difficult  to 
handle  in  a  commercial  way,  but  if  one  can  collect  it  and  replant  at  once 
there  is  no  difficulty.  It  grows  wild  in  partial  shade  or  full  sunshine  and 
almost  always  on  a  southern  slope. 

Of  the  later-blooming  bulbs,  the  lily  family  offers  several  varieties  that 
are  perfectly  at  home  under  the  conditions  required  for  naturalizing.  Lilium 
superbum,  L.  Phlladelphicum  and  L.  Canadense  grow  wild  in  our  meadows. 
The  first  is  tall,  stately  and  really  superb,  as  its  name  indicates;  and  a  valley 
meadow  with  graceful  pendulous  Lilium  Canadense  mingled  with  its  grass  is 
as  charming  a  bit  of  nature's  gardening  as  one  could  wish  to  see.  Of 
exotic  lilies,  the  numerous  varieties  of  L.  tigrinum  (tiger  lilies),  L.  umbellatum, 
L.  Chalcedonicum  and  L.  Thunbergianum  are  all  quite  happy  when  left  to  take 
care  of  themselves  in  grass  or  shrubbery  margins  and  are  most  effective  in 
brookside  planting;  and  of  all  graceful  things  the  Siberian  lily,  L.  tenuifolium, 
with  slender  stems  and  lovely  coral  scarlet  flowers,  easily  leads  the  proces- 
sion. The  bulbs  can  now  be  bought  at  a  price  not  much  greater  than  that 
of  the  choicer  tulips,  and  I  picture  with  eager  anticipation  a  meadow  filled 
with  them  this  coming  year. 

When  it  comes  to  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  both  native  and  exotic, 
suitable  for  naturalizing,  the  list  is  almost  endless.  I  must  be  content  to 
tell  of  a  few  things  that  I  have  found  especially  effective.  First  in  useful- 
ness, perhaps,  are  our  native  phloxes.  Phlox  divaricata,  known  as  wild  sweet- 
william,  grows  in  great  abundance  over  a  large  section  of  this  country.  It 
is  easy  to  collect  and  transplant,  and  its  graceful  habit  and  sweet-scented 
light  purple  flowers  make  it  very  attractive;  it  will  thrive  in  either  sun  or 


ROSA    WICHURAIANA 

shade.  Phlox  divaricata  c<erulia,  a  rare  species  from  the  South,  is  identical  with 
P.  divaricate  in  foliage  and  habit  but  with  the  bluest  flowers  of  any  phlox. 
P.  reptans  is  a  very  dwarf  variety  with  pinkish  flowers,  and  both  it  and  P.  divar- 
icata  c<erulia  will  grow  well  in  either  sun  or  shade.  Millions  of  geraniums 
are  planted  annually,  yet  with  the  different  varieties  of  Phlox  subulata,  or 
moss  pink,  color  effects  can  be  produced  not  to  be  equaled  in  any  way  by 
the  most  lavish  use  of  geraniums.  Yet  the  first  cost  of  the  phlox  is  much 
less  than  that  of  geraniums,  and  its  first  cost  is  its  only  cost,  as  nothing 
increases  more  rapidly  and  nothing  is  hardier.  The  Germans  describe  it  as 
"winter-hart,"  that  is,  hardy  in  winter,  and  it  is  absolutely  so  in  every  situa- 
tion. It  can  be  used  advantageously  in  more  ways  than  any  plant  I  know 
of,  but  it  is  seen  at  its  best  when  used  to  cover  a  steep,  rocky  bank.  It  is 
evergreen  and  its  foliage  covers  the  ground  as  completely  as  the  grass  of  a 
lawn,  and  when  it  is  in  bloom  in  May  it  is  a  solid  sheet  of  pink  or  white 
bloom  which  lasts  for  a  month.  It  blooms  again  in  September,  but  not  so 
freely.  The  colors  are  light  to  deep  pink,  purplish  pink,  pure  white  and 
white  with  pink  center,  and  I  have  had  recently  a  blue  variety  from  England 


62 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


which  promises  to  be  valuable.  Last  June  I  saw  in  Franklin  Park,  Boston, 
two  splendid  masses  of  Coronilla  varia  and  our  native  hawkweed,  Hieracium. 
Both  had  evidently  established  themselves  in  an  unmown  meadow  and 
completely  covered  the  ground  they  occupied,  and  in  all  this  beautiful  park 
no  finer  effects  were  anywhere  to  be  seen.  The  hawkweed,  with  its  bright 
orange-crimson  flowers,  is  invaluable  for  covering  any  bare,  impover- 
ished ground,  and  the  coronilla,  when  properly  placed  and  allowed  to  grow 
as  it  will,  will  make  most  effective  floral  pictures.  It  is  a  creeping  plant  or 
semi-climber  that  piles  itself  up  in  most  effective  masses  and,  when  in  bloom, 
is  literally  covered  with  beautiful  pink  and  white  flowers. 

Among  the  most  beautiful  scenes  in  England  are  the  meadows  and 
orchards  filled  with  the  common  yellow  primrose,  Primula  vulgaris,  in  the 
spring.  This  charming  flower  is  equally  hardy  in  this  country  and  so 
are  the  Japanese  primroses,  P.  Japonica  and  P.  Sieboldii, —  the  latter  with 
lovely  large  flowers  ranging  from  pure  white  to  deep  purple-rose,  the 


IRIS   SIBIRICA    AND    RHODODENDRONS 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


former  with  bright  purple  flowers  thrown  well  above  the  foliage.  The  poly- 
anthus section  of  primroses,  Primula  veris,  are  equally  desirable  for  natural- 
izing and  are  among  the  earliest  of  spring  flowers. 

Our  bright  and  cheerful  native  columbine,  Aquilegia  Canadensis,  has 
freely  naturalized  it- 
self over  a  large  sec- 
tion of  our  country 
and  is  well  worth 
consideration  in  any 
scheme  of  natural 
gardening.  It  is  quite 
happy  in  sun  or  par- 
tial shade,  and  so  is 
the  exquisite  Rocky 
Mountain  columbine, 
Aquilegia  c<?rulea,  and 
indeed  any  of  the 
wild  species,  either 
native  or  exotic.  The 
butterfly  weed,  As- 
clepias  tuberosa,  has 
shown  on  many  of 
our  broad  prairies  its 
adaptability  for  nat- 
ural planting.  One 
cannot  escape  its 
glorious  masses  of 
orange- scarlet  color 
even  from  the  car- 
window,  and  quite  as 
effective  are  the  nu- 
merous varieties  of 
hardy  sunflowers  to 
be  seen  throughout  the  West.  They  are  all  vigorous  growers  and  are  most 
effective  when  grouped  among  or  on  the  margin  of  native  shrubbery.  The 
orange  or  yellow  day-lilies,  Hemerocallis,  have  escaped  from  gardens  and  have 
naturalized  themselves  in  many  places.  Usually  H.fulva,  the  brownish  yellow 
variety,  is  seen,  but  the  bright  clear  yellow  sorts,  //.  /lava,  H .  Tbunbergii 


HARDY  PRIMROSES  AND    FORGET-ME-NOTS 


TRILLIUM    GRAND1FLORUM    AND    ANEMONE    PENNSYLfANlCA 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS  65 

and  H .  Sieboldi,  are  more  beautiful.  Quite  as  easy  to  establish  is  the  sweet 
rocket,  Hesperis  matronalis,  which  some  people  think  to  be  a  tall  and  poor 
variety  of  Phlox  paniculata.  I  need  not  dilate  on  the  beauty  of  our  native 
asters,  which  contribute  so  much  to  the  splendid  coloring  of  our  fall  land- 
scapes; but  the  best  of  all  of  them,  the  red  New  England  aster,  A.  Nov<z- 
AngH<e,  var.  rubra,  is  not  indigenous  in  many  of  our  states.  Many  of  the 
European  sorts  are  worth  consideration,  and  A.  Tataricus  vies  with  Helian- 
tbus  Maximiliani  in  being  the  last  flower  of  the  fall;  indeed,  they  bloom  so 
late,  to  use  a  Hibernianism,  that  they  do  not  bloom  at  all  when  overtaken  by 
an  early  winter.  Both  are  tall  and  stately.  For  rocky  banks  and  partial 
shade  there  is  nothing  better  than  our  dwarf  windflower,  Anemone  Pennsyl- 
vania, which  blooms  in  June,  and  in  fall-blooming  plants  there  is  nothing 
finer  than  the  Japanese  anemones  when  planted  in  a  deep  and  heavy  soil  in 
partial  shade.  In  light  and  sandy  soil  they  are  quite  useless.  In  the  old 
Jackson  garden  in  Schenectady  I  have  seen  hundreds  six  feet  high,  with 
flowers  in  countless  thousands,  in  the  fall.  There  are  many  varieties  all  fine, 
but  the  old  pure  white  sort  known  as  Honorine  Jobert  is  the  most  beauti- 
ful of  all.  What  can  I  say  that  will  give  any  conception  of  the  exquisite 
loveliness  of  the  tall  evening  primrose,  CEnothera  Lamarckianaf  Tall  and 
stately,  its  large  soft  yellow  flowers  open  just  at  twilight,  and  in  this  light  or 
on  a  moonlight  night,  its  charm  is  indescribable.  It  is  only  a  biennial,  but,  like 
the  showy  foxglove,  freely  renews  itself  from  self-sown  seed.  The  foxgloves 
grow  wild  in  meadows  and  hedgerows  in  England,  and  will  take  care  of 
themselves  quite  as  well  here.  They  are  showy  and  effective  in  large  or  small 
groups  and  will  do  well  in  considerable  shade.  Showier  still  are  the  single 
hollyhocks,  but  some  people  think  these  too  suggestive  of  the  garden  for 
natural  plantings.  But  I  am  not  sure  of  this  and  have  seen  great  masses 
that  have  escaped  from  gardens  and  became  established  in  the  grass  or  on 
bare  banks  and  flourished  year  after  year.  A  more  modest  flower,  but  delight- 
ful in  many  situations,  is  the  English  daisy,  'Bellis  perennis.  This  is  the  daisy 
Burns  writes  about  and  is  lovely  when  naturalized,  either  in  the  double  or 
single  kinds,  and  it  is  one  of  the  few  flowers  that  is  perfectly  at  home  on  a 
closely  mown  lawn.  Our  own  ox-eye  daisy  is  beautiful,  but  it  is  hardly  neces- 
sary or  safe  to  naturalize  in  any  section  of  this  country.  TDoronicum  planta- 
gineum,  var.  excehum,  is  a  difficult  subject  for  the  nurseryman,  but  I  have  seen 
it  perfectly  at  home  on  the  banks  of  a  rocky  and  partially  shaded  ravine.  It 
grows  eighteen  inches  high  and  produces  a  mass  of  beautiful  yellow  flowers 
in  the  spring,  and  there  is  nothing  else  to  take  its  place  that  I  can  think  of. 


66 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


The  great  iris  family  must  not  be  overlooked.  Many  of  its  members 
are  most  effective  and  quite  happy  in  wild  plantings.  Our  native  sorts, 
/.  Pseudacorus,  with  its  lovely  rich  yellow  flowers,  and  I.  versicolor,  are  equally 
at  home  in  marsh  or  waterside  and  will  thrive  quite  as  well  on  a  dry  soil. 
/.  Sibirica,  var.  sanguined,  is  one  of  the  best  subjects  for  naturalizing  and  is 
most  effective  on  bank  of  stream  or  pond  edge,  and  so  are  the  lovely  and 
showy  Japanese  iris,  which  should  be  planted  only  in  the  self-colored  varie- 


ENGLISH    DAISIES    ON    EDGE    OF   POND 

ties.  There  are  many  fine  things  for  planting  in  marsh  or  waterside.  Our 
brilliant  cardinal-flower  is  sometimes  difficult  to  establish;  less  difficult  is 
the  showy  Lythrum  roseum,  which  grows  so  plentifully  on  the  banks  of  the 
Thames  in  England,  where  its  plentiful  pink  flowers  reflected  in  the  water 
make  many  a  lovely  picture.  Many  who  read  this  have  seen  the  marshrrul- 
low,  Hibiscus  Moscheutos,  growing  in  countless  thousands  along  the  ditches 
in  the  swamps  on  the  D.  L.  and  W.  R.  R.,  between  New  York  City  and 
Newark.  Nothing  is  more  striking  and  showy,  and  it  is  equally  at  home  in 
wet  or  dry  ground,  and  this  is  true  of  many  swamp  plants.  Usually  seen  in 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS  67 

wet  places  is  the  joe  pye-weed,  Eupatorium  purpureum,  which  is  tall,  bold 
and  effective.  Equally  strong  and  vigorous  are  the  bocconias,  which  have 
noble  foliage,  and  the  giant  knotweed,  Polygonum  cuspidatum,  which  grows  six 
feet  high  and  makes  a  most  effective  mass  of  foliage  and  flower;  but  it  must 
never  be  planted  where  it  can  choke  out  weaker  plants,  as  it  spreads  with 


HESPERIS  ALBA 

great  vigor  and  rapidity.  The  giant  parsnip  is  a  coarse  and  somewhat 
weedy  plant,  but  effective  in  some  situations  where  a  bold  foliage  is  needed. 
To  return  to  daintier  things:  the  water  forget-me-not,  Myosotis  palustris, 
var.  semper flor -ens,  is  exquisite  and  most  useful  for  naturalizing  on  the  edge 
of  ponds  and  small  streams.  Planted  close  to  the  water's  edge,  it  will  often 
extend  a  few  inches  over  the  water's  surface,  and  is  covered  with  lovely  blue 
flowers  throughout  the  season.  Another  lovely  blue  flower  is  the  Mertensia 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


69 


Virgmica,  sometimes  called  bluebells.  It  grows  about  eighteen  inches  high, 
blooms  in  early  spring,  and  likes  a  moist  and  shady  situation.  I  need  say 
nothing  of  the  lily-of-the-valley,  as  everybody  has  seen  it  grow  wild  in  old 
gardens  and  it  is  still  more  effective  in  woods  and  meadows.  The  list  is 
almost  endless,  but  two  prime  favorites  of  mine  must  still  be  mentioned.  Spir<ea 
Aruncus,  or  goat's  beard,  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  native  plants  and 
perfectly  happy  in  almost  any  position  or  soil.  Its  tall  and  stately  growth, 


M  I-.R  TEN  SI  A    I'IRGINICA 

splendid  foliage  and  great  spikes  of  feathery  white  bloom  in  June  make  it 
distinguished  in  any  collection;  and  the  thalictrums, — what  can  I  say  of  them? 
T.  a quile gi# folium  is  fine  in  foliage,  seed  and  bloom;  its  feathery  flowers, 
ranging  through  many  delicate  shades  from  white  to  purple,  are  an  annual 
delight.  T.  polygonum  grows  six  feet  high  and,  while  the  flowers  are  not  so 
fine,  the  foliage  and  habit  leave  nothing  to  be  desired.  T.  glaucum,  with  its 
abundant  yellow  bloom,  is  almost  equal  in  beauty. 

A  beautiful  wild  garden  might  be  made  of  vines  alone,  and  the  wild 
grapes,  climbing  roses  and  wild  clematises  of  this  and  other  countries  would 
be  the  chief  reliance.  I  dare  not  describe  the  multitude  of  shrubs  suitable 


7o 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


for  naturalizing,  but  think  of  the  many  lovely  pictures  which  could  be  made 
with  the  numerous  varieties  of  azaleas  and  rhododendrons  which  fit  so  well 
in  any  scheme  of  natural  planting;  and  the  most  beautiful  of  all  shrubs,  our 
mountain  laurel,  Kalmia  latifolia,  is  seen  at  its  best  only  when  growing  wild 
or  arranged  in  natural  groupings. 

The  spring-flowering  bulbs  must,  of  course,  all  be  planted  in  the  fall, 
but  lilies  and  herbaceous  things  may  be  planted  either  in  spring  or  fall. 
Lilies,  if  obtainable,  are  better  planted  in  the  fall,  and  I  prefer  early  fall  plant- 
ing for  all  perennial  plants  of  sufficient  hardiness.  It  is  beginning  to  dawn  on 
the  popular  mind  that  there  are  other  plants  desirable  besides  geraniums  and 
coleus,  and  better  uses  for  flowers  than  spoiling  lawns  with  beds  of  them. 
Some  years  ago  it  was  my  misfortune  to  live  in  a  city  house,  and  I  filled  my 
Lilliputian  lawn  with  crocuses,  scillas  and  snowdrops.  When  they  bloomed 
the  neighborhood  was  quite  taken  by  surprise,  and  one  of  my  neighbors,  a 
successful  business  man,  eagerly  inquired  what  kind  of  fertilizer  I  had  used. 
He  really  thought  that  the  bloom  which  he  admired  was  spontaneous  and 
the  result  of  the  superior  quality  of  my  fertilizer. 


KALMIA    LATIFOLIA    IN  ARNOLD   ARBORETUM 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


DETAILED   PLAN   FOR    FLOWER    GARDEN 

The  accompanying  plan  is  a  section  of  the  planting  plan  made  for  the  grounds  (five  acres 
in  extent)  of  the  late  C.  L.  Magee,  Esq.,  of  Pittsburg.  The  scheme  of  this  garden  is  suffi- 
ciently explained  by  the  specifications.  The  variety  of  plants  and  shrubs  used  insures  a  suc- 
cession of  bloom  from  early  spring  until  November.  All  the  walks  in  this  garden  are  of  green 
sward,  which  makes  it  far  more  attractive  than  if  they  had  been  made  of  gravel,  cement,  or  of 
any  of  the  materials  usually  employed. 

There  are  a  few  old  trees  in  the  garden,  and  the  planting  near  them  is  suitable  for  a  shady 
location,  and  vines  have  been  planted  to  climb  over  some  of  them  (old  cherry  trees). 

The  beds  used  for  spring-flowering  bulbs  are  also  used  for  annuals,  such  as  petunias, 
poppies,  Phlox  TDrummondii,  pinks,  nasturtiums,  and  mignonette  in  the  summer. 

A  portion  of  the  planting  of  tall  shrubs  and  small  trees  is  designed  to  shut  out  of  view 
outbuildings  on  the  adjoining  property. 

PLANTING    SPECIFICATIONS 


1.  Magnolia  Soulangeana.  27 

2.  Spira  a  aria  foil  a.  28, 

3.  Clethra  alnifolia.  29. 

4.  Rhododendrons,    with    Li  It  urn    auratum       30. 

planted  among  them.  31, 

5.  1)eutzia  gracilis.  32, 

6.  Snowberries.  33. 

7.  Rhododendrons,    with    Li  Hum    auratum       34. 

planted  among  them.  35, 

8.  Ligustrum  Ibota.  36. 

9.  Cornus  sanguinea.  37. 
10.  Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora.  38. 
n.   Colutea  arborescens.  39. 

12.  Spiraa  Van  Houttei.  40. 

13.  Cercis  occidentals . 

14.  Viburnum  plicatum.  41. 

15.  Rhodotypus  kerrioides.  42. 

16.  Magnolia  Soulangeana.  43. 

17.  Itea  Virginica.  44. 

1 8.  Rosa  moschata.  45. 

19.  Aralia  Japonica.  46. 

20.  Viburnum  Lantana.  47. 

21.  White  birch.  48. 

22.  Single  white  altheas.  49. 

23.  Penzance  sweetbriers.  50. 

24.  Philadelphus  cordifolius.  51. 

25.  Eulalia  Japonica  gracillima.  52. 

26.  Cydonia  Japonica.  53. 


Rhus  glabra  laciniata. 

Magnolia  purpurea. 

Weigela  floribunda. 

Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora. 

Forsythia  Fortunei. 

Polygonum  cuspidatum. 

Vitex  Agnus-castus. 

Cornus  florida. 

Crattegus  Oxyacantha. 

Hydrangea  quercifolia. 

Weigela  Candida. 

Clethra  alnifolia. 

Corchorus  Japonicus. 

Azalea  calendulacea,  with  Lilium  superbum 

planted  among  them. 
Lonicera  fragrantissima. 
Spirea,  Anthony  Waterer. 
Viburnum  acerifolium. 
Viburnum  Oxycoccus, 
Viburnum  dentatum. 
Viburnum  dilatatum. 
Viburnum  Oxycoccus. 
Viburnum  Nepalense. 
Viburnum  nanum. 
Spiraa  Lindleyana. 
Euonymus  radicans  variegatus, 
Cephalanthus  occidentalis. 
Hydrangea  radial  a. 


72 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


DETAILED    PLAN    FOR    FLOWER    GARDEN,    continued 


54.  Rubus  odorata. 

55.  Foxgloves. 

56.  Snowberries,  red  and  white. 

57.  Euonymus  atropurpureus. 

58.  Itea  Firginica. 

59.  Corchorti!  Japonica  vartegata. 

60.  Aster  Novte-Anglitf. 

61.  Weigela  rose  a. 

62.  Herberts  Thunbergii. 

63.  Clematis  paniculata. 

64.  Spiraa  tomentosa. 

65.  Erianthus  Ravenna. 

66.  Azalea   Mollis,    with    Li  Hum    lancifolium 

planted  among  them. 

67.  Sambucus  pubens. 

68.  Hypericum  Moserianitirt. 

69.  Ghent    azaleas,     with    L///a»j     canadense, 

Martagon,  TSrownii,  superbum  and  /0«gv- 
florum  planted  among  them. 

70.  Mahonia  aquifolium. 

71.  Spir&a  Thunbergii. 

72.  .#0*0  rugosa  alba. 

73.  Rosa  pomif  era. 

74.  Euonymus  atropurpureus. 

75.  Ceanotkus  Americanus. 

76.  /?05</  rubrifolia. 

77.  Spiraa  salicifolia. 

78.  'Herberts  Thunbergii. 

79.  Assorted  flowering  almonds. 

80.  /Jwa  rugosa  rubra. 

81.  Hybrid  perpetual  roses. 

82.  Aquilegias,  single  long-spurred. 

83.  Hardy  pinks. 

84.  Japanese  iris. 

85.  Single  early  tulips  and  annual  pinks. 

86.  Narcissus,  Sir  Watkin. 

87.  Narcissus,  Orange  Phoenix. 

88.  Narcissus,  Ard  Righ. 

89.  Narcissus,  'Bicolor  Horsfieldii. 

90.  Narcissus  odorus, 

91.  Sweet  peas. 

92.  Lobelia  cardinalis. 

93.  Platycodon  Mariesi. 

94.  Tiger  lilies. 


95. 

96. 

97. 

98. 

99. 
IOO. 
101. 
102. 
103. 
104. 
105. 

106. 
107. 
108. 
109. 
no. 
ill. 
112. 

113. 
114. 
115. 
116. 
117- 
118. 
119. 
120. 
121. 
122. 
123. 
124. 
125. 
126. 
127. 
128. 
129. 
130. 
131. 
132. 
133. 
134. 
135. 
136. 


cDictamnu5  fraxinella. 

Tall  phlox. 

Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens 

Spiraa  palmata. 

Japanese  iris. 

German  iris. 

Tall  phlox. 

Spirtea  Filipendula. 

Sedum  spectabile. 

Tritoma  grandiflora. 

Funkia   alba,  and   Clematis  paniculata  to 

climb  tree. 

Tall  English  delphiniums. 
Narcissus,  single  jonquils. 
Narcissus,  'Bicolor  Empress 
Narcissus,  Campernelles. 
Narcissus,  Emperor. 
Narcissus,  Golden  Spur. 
Single   early    tulips    and    Phlox    "Drum- 

mondii. 

Florists'  pinks,  assorted. 
'Boltonia  latisquama. 
CEnothera  biennis. 
Iberis  sempervirens. 
Single  hollyhocks. 
Single  hollyhocks. 
Pentstemon  Torreyi. 
Anemone  Japonica  alba. 
Phlox  subulata. 
Anemone  Japonica  rubra, 
"Desmodium  penduliflorum. 
Rudbeckia,  Golden  Glow. 
Rudbeckia  speciosa. 
Cypripedium  spectabile. 
Viola  cornuta. 
Lily-of-the-valley. 
Campanula  Carpatica. 
Montbretia   crocosmaflora. 
Chrysanthemum  latifolium. 
Liatris  pycnostachya. 


'Delphinium  formosum. 
Gesneriana  tulips  and  gladioli. 
Parrot  tulips  and  calliopsis. 


74 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


DETAILED    PLAN   FOR    FLOWER    GARDEN,    continued 


137.  Sweet  peas. 

138.  Late  tulips  and  Shirley  poppies. 

139.  Narcissus  biflorus. 

140.  Narcissus,  Silver  Phoenix. 

141.  Narcissus,  Van  Sion. 

142.  Narcissus  Campernelles. 

143.  Single  jonquils. 

144.  Gaillardia  grandiflora. 

145.  Tall  phlox. 

146.  Heliopsis  Pitcheriana. 

147.  Single  peonies. 

148.  Heuchera  sanguine  a. 

149.  Tritoma  grandiflora. 

150.  Spiraa  Aruncus. 

151.  Aquilegias,  assorted  single. 

152.  Pulmonaria  maculata. 

153.  Hemerocallis  flava. 

154.  Tall  phlox. 

155.  Heliopsis  Pitcheriana. 

156.  Helianthus  rigidus. 


157.  Double  peonies. 

158.  Helianthus  latiflorus. 

159.  Helianthus  orgyalis. 

1 60.  Funkia  Sieboldiana. 

161.  Onoclea  sensibilis. 

162.  Struthiopteris  Germanica. 

163.  Coreopsis  lanceolata. 

164.  Phlox  subulata  alba. 

165.  Rhododendron  Everestianum. 

166.  Japanese  maples. 

167.  Rosa  setigera,  to  climb  old  cherry  tree. 

1 68.  Lonicera  Morrowl. 

169.  Japan  weeping  cherry. 

170.  Chinese  rhubarb. 

171.  Iron  wire  arch,  with  Rosa   Wichuariana 

trained  on  it. 

172.  Iron  wire  arch,   with    Crimson    Rambler 

rose  trained  on  it. 

A,  A,  A,  A,  A,  A.     Large  old  trees — cherry, 
elm,  etc. 


PLAN    FOR    A    CITY    GARDEN 

This  plan,  made  for  Mr.  J.  R.  Mellon,  of  Pittsburg,  shows  a  very  elaborate  and  com- 
prehensive garden,  and  one  that  proved  very  successful.  The  garden  is  entirely  inclosed 
with  stone  walls  and  shrubbery.  The  garden-house  is  a  reproduction  of  an  Irish  thatched 
cottage,  and  the  garden  in  the  rear  of  it  is  a  miniature  vegetable  garden. 


EXPLANATION   OF    PLAN 


1,  I,  I,  I.   Deciduous  shrubs. 

2,  2,  2,  2.   Herbaceous  perennials. 

3,  Rhododendrons  and  lilies. 

4,  Ghent  and  Mollis  azaleas,  and    lilies. 

5,  5.   Single  and  double  peonies. 

6,  7,  8.   Specimen   shrubs. 

9.   Hybrid  perpetual  roses,  and  daffodils. 

10.  Specimen  plants. 

11.  Tree  peonies. 

12.  Pond  for  water  lilies  and  nelumbiums. 

13.  Rockery,  waterfall,  and  brook. 


14.  Inclosed     space     for     soil     manure     and 

rubbish. 

15,  16,  17,   18,   19,  20.   Specimen  shrubs  and 

small  trees. 
21,  22,  23,  24,  25.   Specimen  trees. 

In  addition  to  planting  shown  on  plan, 
climbing  roses  and  other  vines  are  freely 
used  to  cover  walls,  buildings,  and  arches 
over  paths,  and  thousands  of  spring-flower- 
ing bulbs  are  planted  among  the  hardy 
plants  and  in  the  margins  of  the  shrubbery. 


PLANTING    PLAN    FOR 
FIFTY-FOOT    LOT 

1.  Kalmia  latifolia  or  rhododendrons. 

2.  2,  2.   Ghent  azaleas. 

3.  Rhododendron  or  Japanese  maple. 

4.  Yucca    filamentosa.       Spaces    be- 

tween the  yuccas  to  be  covered 
with  Cerastium  tomentosum. 

5.  Nasturtiums  and  Bybloem  tulips. 

6.  Single  hollyhocks. 

7.  Lilies-of-the-valley. 

8.  Spiraea  venusta. 
g.   Woodsia  obtusa. 

10.  Anemone  Robinsoniana. 

11.  Asplenium  Felix-fcemina. 

12.  Trillium  grandiflorum. 

13.  Adiantum    pedatum    and     Cypripe- 

dium  spectabile. 

14.  Tiarella  cordifolia. 

15.  Anemone  Japonica  alba. 

16.  Sweet  peas. 

17.  Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora. 

1 8.  ^ojfl  rugosa  alba. 

19.  Tiger  lilies. 

20.  Forsythia  z'iridissima. 

21.  Aralia  Japonica. 

22.  S^^ww  spectabile. 

23.  Heuchera  sanguinea. 

24.  7m  Sibirica. 

25.  Narcissus    Emperor,   followed    by 

golden  moneywort. 

26.  Linum  flavum. 

27.  Viola  cornuta. 

28.  Phlox,  Miss  Lingard. 

29.  Tall  delphiniums. 

30.  Oriental  poppies. 

31.  Foxgloves. 

32.  Gaillardia  grandiflora. 

33.  Japanese  iris. 

34.  Tiger  lilies. 

35.  Spiraa  Van  Houttei. 

36.  'Deutzia  gracilis. 

37.  Gentiana  acaulis. 

38.  Funkia  variegata. 

39.  Andromeda  Japonica. 

40.  Lilium  roseum. 

41.  IVahlenbergia  grandiflora. 

42.  Coreopsis  lanceolata. 

43.  Narcissus,   IJicolor  Horsfieldii,  fol- 

lowed by  Iberis  sempervirens. 

44.  Spiraa  astilboides. 

45.  Platycodon  Mariesi. 

46.  'Dicentra  spectabilis. 

47.  Cornus  Sptethi. 

48.  Lilium   elegans. 

49.  Hybrid  perpetual  roses. 


50.  Narcissus  Van  Sion,  followed  by  Phlox 

subulata. 

51.  Lilium  superbum. 

52.  Iceland  poppies. 

53.  Mixed  aquilegias. 

54.  Herbaceous  peonies. 

55.  Plumbago  Larpentce. 

56.  Herberts  Thunbergii. 

57.  Spireea  TSumalda. 

58.  Silver  maples  on  outer  edge  of  sidewalk. 

59.  Phlox  subulata  and    Gesneriana  tulips. 

60.  Mixed  tulips. 

61.  Exochorda  grandiflora. 

62.  Magnolia  Soulangeana. 

A    GOOD    PLAN 

The  accompanying  plan  made  for  Mr. 
Samuel  W.  Black,  of  Edgeworth,  Pa., 
shows  an  unusual  arrangement,  but  one 
that  has  proven  quite  satifactory  and  effec- 
tive. There  are  two  houses  on  the  grounds, 
one  occupied  by  Mr.  Black,  the  other  by 
his  sister,  and  while  each  house  has  a  sepa- 
rate lawn  the  garden  between  the  houses 
is  used  in  common.  This  garden  is  so 
screened  by  hedges  and  shrubbery  that 
eventually  it  cannot  be  seen  from  the  street. 
The  entrance  road  to  Mr.  Black's  house  is 
between  two  hemlock  hedges,  with  strip  of 
grass  on  either  side. 

EXPLANATION   OF   PLAN 

1,  i,  i.   Shrubbery. 

2,  3.   Rhododendron  and  lilies. 

4.  Bank  covered  with  Rosa  Wichuraiana. 

and  R.  Wichuraiana  hybrids. 

5,  6,  7,  8,  9,   10,   ii,    12,   13.   Specimen 

trees  and  shrubs. 
14..   Groups  of  upright  honeysuckles. 

15.  Tulip  tree. 

16.  Magnolia  Soulangeana. 

17.  Japanese  maples. 

1 8.  Euonymus    radicans,  to  cover   walls   of 

house  and  terrace. 

19.  Group  of  Herberts  Thunbergii. 

20.  21,  22,  23,  24,   25,  26.   Specimen  trees 

and  shrubs. 

27.  A r alia  Japonica. 

28.  Specimen  rhododendrons. 
29>  3°-  31.  32-   Specimen  trees. 

33.  Hemlock  hedge,  with  border  of  hardy 

perennials  in  front. 

34.  Spirtfa  f^an  Houttei. 


78  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

PLAN    FOR    A    FIVE-ACRE    PLACE 

This  plan  is  for  a  rectangular  piece  of  ground  of  about  five  acres,  with  one  street 
frontage.  The  conventional  location  of  the  house  is  as  near  the  center  of  the  grounds  as 
it  is  possible  to  get  it,  but  the  present  plan  contemplates  placing  the  house  in  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  grounds,  about  eighty  feet  from  the  street.  The  advantages  of  this  loca- 
tion are  the  extremely  convenient  arrangement  of  the  grounds  it  admits  of,  and  far  greater 
extent  of  unbroken  lawn  than  if  the  house  were  placed  anywhere  near  the  center  of  the 
plat.  The  one  objection  that  might  be  urged  against  this  unusual  location  of  the  house  is 
its  nearness  to  the  street ;  but  this  is  overcome  by  the  massed  planting  on  the  south  line, 
which  makes  the  nearest  point  on  the  street  from  which  the  house  is  visible  over  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  away. 

The  treatment  of  the  vegetable  garden  is  quite  important;  usually,  even  in  quite  ambi- 
tious places,  it  is  left  fully  exposed  to  the  house  and  grounds.  While  a  growing  crop  of 
vegetables  is  not  unsightly,  it  can  hardly  be  claimed  that  it  is  a  desirable  landscape  feature; 
and  the  seasons  and  the  necessary  work  of  the  garden  keep  it  in  a  condition,  for  a  large 
part  of  the  year,  that  had  better  be  kept  out  of  sight.  This  design  encloses  the  garden 
with  a  hemlock  hedge,  which  I  think  is  the  most  beautiful  and  satisfactory  one  that  can  be 
grown  in  this  climate.  California  privet  makes  a  very  fine  hedge  and  can  be  grown  to  a 
height  of  five  or  six  feet  in  three  seasons,  and  is  almost  evergreen.  Unfortunately,  this 
privet  is  not  quite  hardy  in  all  localities.  The  design  of  the  garden  provides  for  vege- 
tables, fruit  (such  as  dwarf  pears,  grapes,  and  dwarf  apples)  and  hardy  and  annual  flowers 
for  cutting  from  early  spring  until  November.  In  addition  to  the  planting  shown  on  the 
plan,  a  row  of  trees  is  to  be  planted  along  the  west  line  of  the  place,  and  the  porches  are 
to  be  covered  with  vines. 

As  I  have  said  before,  these  plans  can  only  serve  to  show  some  correct  principles  of 
arrangement  and  planting.  The  plan  for  any  given  place  must  be  specially  made  for  it, 
and  all  local  conditions  and  limitations  considered. 

EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 

1.  I,  I.  Massed  planting  of  deciduous  trees,       11.  Magnolia  Soulangeana. 

evergreens  and  shrubs,  with  groups  of      12.  Colorado      bl-ue      spruce      and     weeping 

strong  -  growing    herbaceous    plants  in  hemlock. 

the  margins.  13.  Nordmann's     fir,     oriental     spruce,     and 

2.  Group  of  trees.  Abies  pendula. 

3.  Border  for  single  hollyhocks.  14.  Tulip  tree. 
4..   Border  of  hybrid  perpetual  roses.  15.  Pin  oak. 

5.  8.  Border    of    hardy    plants,    lilies,    and      16.   Specimen  rhododendrons. 

spring-flowering  bulbs.  17.  Weeping  beech. 

6.  Border  of  summer-flowering  bulbs.  18.   Rose -flowered    Japanese    weeping   cherry 

7.  Border  of  annuals.  (high  grafted). 

9.  Japanese  maples.  19.  Abies  concolor  and  Picea   excelsa. 

10.  Magnolia  stellata  and  golden  yew.  20.   Magnolia   conspicua. 


FO/?    y?    FIFE-ACRE    PLACE 


8o 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


PLAN    FOR 


FIVE-ACRE    PLACE,    continued 


21.  Fruit    along    inside    paths    of    vegetable 

garden  —  grapes,  dwarf  pears,  dwarf 
apples,  etc. 

22.  Saplings    eight    inches    in    diameter    with 

branches  cut  back  to  five  or  six  feet. 
These  posts  can  be  covered  with  wis- 
taria and  similar  vines. 

23.  Summer  house  or  pavilion. 


24.  Shrubbery. 

25.  Chinese  cypress. 

26.  Rhododendrons. 

27.  Purple  beech. 

Vegetable  garden  to  be  inclosed  with  a 
hemlock  hedge,  which  is  also  to  be  planted 
along  the  west  side  leading  from  the  street 
to  house  and  stable. 


./    SUBURBAN    LOT 

The  accompanying  plan,  made  for  Mr.  J.  E.  Porter,  of  Sewickley,  Pa.,  shows  an  uncon- 
ventional treatment  of  a  corner  lot  that  few  people  would  have  the  courage  to  carry  out. 
Yet  it  has  many  attractions  and  advantages  for  the  owners  and  their  friends.  The  objection 
is  likely  to  be  urged  that  the  public  cannot  see  the  garden  from  the  street ;  but  neither  is 
the  interior  of  the  house  to  be  seen  from  the  highway,  and  privacy  in  the  garden  is  certainly 
as  desirable  as  it  is  in  the  library  or  dining-room,  and  all  the  public  that  the  owner  is 
interested  in  will  be  invited  to  enjoy  his  garden  as  well  as  the  hospitality  of  his  house. 
The  plea  that  it  is  selfish  to  exclude  the  public  from  one's  grounds  is  not  reasonable.  I 
never  knew  of  anybody  being  kept  out  of  a  garden  who  cared  enough  about  it  to  ask  to 
see  it,  and  the  charm  and  beauty  of  a  garden  is  greatly  enhanced  by  shutting  out  of 
view  the  dirt  and  ugliness  of  the  street. 

EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 


1.  Masses  of  shrubs,  evergreen  and  decidu- 

ous small  trees,  with  a  few  groups  of 
bold  herbaceous  plants. 

2.  Crab  apple. 

3.  Hardy  perennials. 
4..   Magnolia   conspicua. 

5.  Japanese  maples. 

6.  Rhododendrons,    with     Lilium    auratum 

planted  among  them. 

7.  Japanese  snowball. 

8.  Paulownia    imperialis,    to    be    cut    to    the 

ground  every  spring. 

9.  Pin  oak. 

10.  Pyrus  Toringo. 

n.  Rhododendron  Everestianum. 

12.  Lonicera  bella. 

13.  Group  of  A r alia  Japonic  a. 

14.  Old  spreading  Seckle  pear, 
a 5,  16.  Tulip  tree. 


17.  White  birch. 

1 8.  Low-spreading  old  Apple  tree. 

19.  White  birch. 

20.  Scarlet  oak. 

21,22,23,24.   Cedar  or  locust  saplings,  to  be 
covered  with  vines,  for  clothes-line  posts. 

25.  Arched  entrance,  to  be  covered  with  Rosa 

Wichuraiana. 

26.  Border  of  hybrid  perpetual  roses. 

27.  Scarlet  maple. 

28.  California  privet  hedge. 

29.  Pin    oaks,    planted    forty    feet    apart    be- 

tween curb  and  sidewalk. 
In  addition  to  planting  shown  on  plan,  the 
following  vines  are  to  be  planted  to  shade 
porch :  Hall's  honeysuckles,  Crimson  Ram- 
bler roses,  Chinese  wistaria  and  Clematis 
paniculata.  Ampelopsis  Roylei  is  to  be  planted 
to  cover  brick  walls  of  house. 


PLAN   FOR    A    SUBURBAN    LOT 


82  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

AN    IDEAL    SUBURBAN    ACRE 

The  unusual  location  of  the  house  in  the  accompanying  plan  probably  makes  it  imprac- 
ticable for  a  majority  of  suburban  acres,  but  it  serves  to  show  some  correct  principles  of 
arrangement  and  planting,  and  that  is  about  all  any  plan  can  show,  except  for  the  special 
grounds  for  which  it  is  designed  ;  for  good  plans  cannot  be  had  ready-made  but  must  be 
made  to  order,  and  all  local  conditions  and  limitations  considered.  The  many  desirable 
features  of  the  plan  I  think  are  evident.  By  locating  the  house  close  to  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  lot,  a  southeast  corner  one,  the  greatest  possible  unbroken  expanse  of  lawn 
is  obtained,  and  all  principal  rooms  of  the  house  have  a  southern  and  eastern  exposure. 
The  massed  planting  on  the  western  and  northern  boundaries  gives  protection  to  house 
and  grounds  from  wintry  winds,  affords  grateful  shelter  for  the  choicer  shrubs  and  plants, 
and  secures  privacy  for  the  rear  of  the  house,  drying  ground  and  stable.  The  driveway — 
and  driveways  are  now  usually  made  so  as  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  driving  and 
walking — gives  entrance  from  one  street  and  the  curved  path  from  the  other.  This  path, 
winding  in  among  the  shrubbery,  affords  opportunity  for  some  very  effective  planting.  Massed 
planting  of  shrubs,  while  the  very  best  arrangement  for  them,  gives  many  chances  for  the 
planting  of  groups  of  herbaceous  plants,  narcissi,  and  lilies  in  the  margins,  and  no  better 
setting  can  be  had  for  the  splendid  new  flowering  cannas.  The  grounds  are  to  be  inclosed 
with  a  fence,  low  wall,  or  hedge, — preferably  a  hedge  if  properly  planted  and  cared  for, — and 
for  grounds  of  this  size  no  more  satisfactory  hedge  can  be  planted  than  California  privet 
(Ligustrum  ovalifolium) .  It  is  quick-growing  and  has  a  rich,  lustrous  green  foliage,  and  it 
is  almost  evergreen.  The  plan  ignores  bedding  plants,  with  the  exception  of  the  beds  of 
cannas  and  carpet-border  in  front  of  the  porte-cochere,  a  very  appropriate  place  for  a  bit  of 
formal  gardening;  but  where  the  annual  expense  of  bedding  is  objectionable,  the  cannas 
could  be  changed  for  tall  hardy  grasses  and  the  carpet-border  for  one  of  tulips  carpeted 
with  Phlox  subulata,  or  it  might  be  omitted  altogether.  Nine-tenths  of  the  bedding  done 
detracts  from,  rather  than  adds  to,  the  grounds  it  is  intended  to  beautify,  and  is  an  annual 
waste  of  money,  which,  if  spent  intelligently  in  carrying  out  a  good  design,  would  in  time 
make  a  sylvan  paradise  of  many  a  suburban  home. 

EXPLANATION  OF   PLAN 
1,1,1.   Shrubs,  with  hardy  plants  and  spring-        8.   Purple  beech. 

flowering  bulbs   planted  in  margin.  9.   Evergreens  and  birches. 

22.    Rhododendrons,    kalmias,    small    ever-       10,10,10,10.    Scarlet   maples;    can   be  used 

greens  and  lilies.  for  clothes-line  when  large  enough. 

3.  Border  for  herbaceous  plants  and  spring-      n.  Hemlock  spruce. 

flowering  bulbs,  or  could  be  used  for  12.  Weeping  dogwood, 

hybrid  perpetual  roses.  13.  Wier's  maple. 

4.  Untrimmed  hedge  of  hemlock  spruce.  14.  Pin  oak. 

5.  Untrimmed  hedge  of  lilacs.  15.  Tulip  tree. 

6.  6,  6,  6.      Posts    covered     with    vines     for      16.   Magnolias. 

clothes-line.  17.   Chinese  cypress. 

7.  Bed  of  new  flowering  cannas  and  carpet-       18.   Rose-flowered  Japanese  weeping  cherry. 

border  of  alternantheras,  echeverias,  etc.       19.   Magnolia  stellata. 


AN   IDEAL    SUBURBAN   ACRE 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


20.  Cut-leaved  birch. 

21.  Fern-leaved  beech. 

22.  Japan  maples. 

23.  Funkia  Sieboldiana. 

24.  Eulalia  gracillima. 

25.  Weigela   Candida. 


AN    IDEAL    SUBURBAN    ACRE,    cnntintteJ 

27.   Maples,  pin  oaks  or  tulip  trees. 

In  addition  to  planting  shown  on  plan, 
Japanese  honeysuckles,  Clematis  paniculata, 
and  Clematis  Henryi  are  to  be  trained  on  the 
porch,  and  a  Chinese  wistaria  is  to  be  car- 
ried up  the  east  end  of  the  house,  trained 


26.   Evergreens,  small  trees  and  shrubs. 


along  the  eaves. 


TWO    SMALL    PLACES    TREATED    AS    ONE 

It  is  now  quite  common  in  suburban  neighborhoods  to  do  away  with  all  fences  and 
make  one  continuous  lawn  in  front  of  the  houses  of  an  entire  block.  I  am  opposed  to  this, 
except  for  small  lots  of  less  than  one  hundred  feet  frontage.  The  inclosure  need  not  be  a 
fence  or  a  wall  ;  much  better  effect  can  be  obtained  by  a  hedge.  The  continuous  lawn  plan 
does  not  permit  grounds  to  have  individual  character  or  privacy,  and  I  think  privacy  is  as 
desirable  on  a  lawn  as  it  is  in  the  living-rooms  of  the  house.  Sometimes,  however,  the 
grounds  of  two  or  three  small  places  may  be  combined  and  treated  as  one  place,  and  fine 
landscape  effects  obtained  which  would  not  be  possible  with  the  separate  places.  The 
accompanying  plan,  made  for  Mr.  W.  J.  Buttfield,  of  Plainfield,  N.  J.,  illustrates  this  very  well. 


1.  Edge  of  woods  back  of  grounds. 

2.  33.   Rows  of  old  Norway  spruce,  twenty 

feet  high,  which  were  allowed  to  re- 
main, as  they  protected  the  grounds 
on  the  north  and  west,  but  the  regu- 
larity of  their  outline  was  broken  by 
additional  planting. 

3.  Purple  beech. 

4.  Border  of  hybrid  perpetual   roses,  herba- 

ceous plants  and  spring-flowering  bulbs. 

5.  Group  of  Japanese  maples,    retinisporas, 

and  specimen  shrubs,  ground  carpeted 
with  Hall's  and  golden  honeysuckles. 

6.  Magnolia   conspicua. 

7.  Sciadopitys  verticillata. 

8.  Magnolia  parviflora. 

9.  Shrubs. 

10.  Abies  concolor. 

11.  Nordmann's  fir. 

12.  Colorado  blue  spruce. 

13.  European  beech 

14.  Massed    planting    of    shrubs,    evergreen 

and  deciduous. 


EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 

15.  Cut-leaved  birch. 

16.  Paulotvnia   imperialif. 

17.  Abies  concolor. 

18.  Mugho  pine. 

19.  Nordmann's  fir. 

20.  Massed  planting  of  deciduous   and  ever- 

green shrubbery. 

21.  Fern-leaved  beech. 

22.  Magnolia  Lennei. 

23.  Japanese  snowball. 

24.  Specimen  rhododendron. 

25.  Puea  alba  carulea. 

26.  White-leaved  weeping  linden. 

27.  Magnolia  stellata. 

28.  Cedrus  Atlantica  glauca. 

29.  Weeping  hemlock. 

30.  Specimen  rhododendron. 

31.  Magnolia  Soulangeana. 

32.  Group  of  white  birch. 

34.  Philadelphus  and   Weigela  Candida. 

35.  Pin  oak. 

36.  Tulip  tree. 


WA* 

/&* 

k  xxy^r 


86  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

PLAN  FOR    A    LARGE    CITY    PLACE 

The  accompanying  plan,  designed  by  Mr.  Caparn,  I  think  an  especially  good  one— very 
original  and  artistic — and,  properly  carried  out,  would  make  a  very  charming  garden.  It  is 
designed  for  a  city  home,  rather  than  a  country  one,  where  it  is  desirable  to  secure  privacy 
from  numerous  pedestrians  and  to  conceal  from  view  surrounding  streets  and  buildings. 
Some  would  object  to  the  arrangement  shown  on  account  of  its  exclusiveness,  but  after 
the  making  of  many  gardens  I  am  still  of  the  opinion  that  privacy  is  one  of  their  best  quali- 
ties. Mr.  Caparn  explains  his  plan  as  follows  : 

"  This  plan  is  for  a  place  of  average  shape  and  about  two  and  a  half  acres  in  area. 
The  unusual  location  of  house  and  lines  of  walk  will  show  that  economy  of  space  is  quite 
consistent  with  convenience  and  breadth  of  effect.  Picturesqueness  is  obtained  by  arrange- 
ment of  planting,  not  by  meandering  of  sinuous  ribbons  of  gravel.  By  placing  the  house  in 
the  corner  the  greatest  possible  extent  of  unbroken  lawn  space  is  secured,  while  the  porch 
fronting  the  lawn  is  as  private  as  it  could  be  on  a  place  of  this  size.  The  lawn  runs  up 
to  the  house  unimpaired  by  any  stripes  of  arid  pavement,  and  the  lines  of  the  house  are 
relieved  only  by  the  creepers  covering  it  (Boston  ivy  on  the  walls  and  clematises,  wistarias 
and  Hall's  Honeysuckles  on  the  porches)  and  the  tall  conifers  to  the  south  of  the  house. 

"This  kind  of  design  is  suited  only  to  land  level,  or  approximately  so,  but  within 
those  lines  could  be  easily  adapted  to  many  places.  An  ideal  contour  map  would  show  the 
lawn  gently  sloping  from  all  sides  to  the  middle,  with  the  walks  on  level  ground.  Along 
the  front  boundary  runs  a  wall  or  iron  fence  ;  the  entrance  is  through  iron  gates  into  a  court 
large  enough  to  admit  of  a  carriage  being  turned.  There  is  a  smaller  gate,  admitting  pedes- 
trians to  a  paved  walk  leading  to  the  front  and  back  of  the  house.  The  carpet-bedding  on 
each  side  of  the  entrance  court  is  justified  by  the  formal  lines  of  building  and  macadam 
which  it  supplements.  The  shrubbery  behind  it  sets  it  off  and  separates  it  from  the  main 
part  of  the  grounds.  The  drying  ground  is  inclosed  on  three  sides  by  a  hedge  or  vine- 
covered  trellis.  The  stable  is  placed  at  the  corner  of  the  vegetable  garden  and  entered 
from  a  side  street,  thus  being  kept  entirely  away  from  the  house  ;  but  if  the  place  were  not 
on  a  corner  the  stable  could  be  placed  opposite  the  drying  ground  and  the  paved  walk 
widened  to  allow  the  passage  of  vehicles. 

"The  interest  and  value  of  the  vegetable  garden  could  be  added  to  by  borders  of 
annuals,  herbaceous  and  tender  plants  for  cut-flowers,  grape-vines,  and  dwarf  fruits.  It  is 
inclosed  by  a  wall.  A  hedge  would  be  a  good  protection,  would  look  better  and  be  far 
•cheaper,  but  would  take  several  years  to  become  an  effective  defense.  If  the  walks  are 
made  wide  enough  to  admit  of  a  horse  and  cart  being  used  in  the  garden,  six  and  one-half 
ifeet  will  be  wide  enough  for  them,  and  the  inner  corners  should  be  rounded  a  little  to 
allow  for  turning;  in  this  way  manure  may  be  carried  to  all  parts  of  the  garden  with  great 
•convenience.  If  desired,  breaks  could  be  left  in  the  shrubbery  to  admit  views  from  the 
street  without  injury  to  the  general  design." 

EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 

I.  Japan  maples.  4.  Magnolia  parviflora. 

.2.  Retinispora  obtusa.  5,  5.   Shrubbery,  with  small  trees  and  groups 

3.  Yulan  magnolia.  of  large  herbaceous  plants  in  margins. 


PLAN    FOR    A    LARGE    CITY    PLACE 


88  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

PLAN    FOR    LARGE    CITY    PLACE,    continued 

6.  Oriental  spruce.  n.   Balsam  fir. 

7.  Rollison's    arborvitaes,    or    golden     retinis-      12.    Norway  spruce. 

poras.  13.  Colorado  blue  spruce. 

8.  Nordmann's  fir.  14.  Purple  beech. 

9.  Scarlet  maple.  15.  Irish  juniper  and  beds  of  herbaceous  plants. 
10.  Andromeda  arborea.  16.  Vine-covered  summer  house. 

PLAN    FOR    GROUNDS    OF    TWENTY  ACRES 

The  accompanying  plan  is  that  of  the  grounds  of  Mr.  Henry  S.  Turner,  at  Elash,  111. 
These  grounds  are  beautifully  situated  on  a  bluff  five  hundred  feet  above  the  Mississippi 
river,  and  about  thirty  miles  from  St.  Louis.  The  grounds  are  comparatively  level  except 
for  a  steep  declivity  on  the  southern  boundary,  commencing  on  a  line  a  few  feet  south  of 
the  house,  and  a  valley  commencing  at  path  a,  and  extending  beyond  the  northwestern 
boundary  of  the  grounds.  This  valley  is  wooded  north  of  the  carriage  drive  which  crosses  it 
from  b  to  c.  The  grounds  slope  gently  to  this  valley  from  path  d,  and  from  the  road 
from  e  to  /. 

The  steep  declivity  referred  to  above  extends  about  three  hundred  feet  south  of  the 
house  to  a  sheer  bluff  above  the  river.  The  house  is  located  to  get  the  full  benefit  of  the 
magnificent  river  and  prairie  view,  which  is  only  limited  by  the  power  of  the  eye.  The 
pond  was  a  natural  one,  the  outlines  of  which  have  been  changed.  This  pond  was  retained 
to  provide  a  place  to  grow  aquatics  and  bog  plants. 

The  grounds  are  very  elaborately  planted  with  a  large  variety  of  trees,  shrubs  and  her- 
baceous plants,  and  promise  to  become  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  beautiful  country 
places  in  the  west.  In  addition  to  the  ground  shown  by  the  plan,  Mr.  Turner  owns 
several  hundred  acres  adjoining,  which  is  devoted  to  a  stock-farm. 

EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 

1,  i,  i.    Woods.  10.   Path    from    house    to    farm,   with   flower 

2.  Steep   declivity,  planted  principally  with  border    on    both    sides,    planted    with 

evergreens,  but  some  open  spaces  left,  hybrid     perpetual     roses,     herbaceoi^ 

in  which  wild   roses  and   other   native  plants,    spring-flowering    bulbs,    sum- 

plants  are  naturalized.  mer-blooming  bulbs,  and  annuals 

3»  3.  3.  3.  3.  3.  3-    Trees  and  shrubs.  11.   Summer  house. 

3«,  3<z.     Shrubs.  12.  Pump-house. 

4.  Trees,  principally  deciduous,  but  with  a  13.   Ice-house, 

few  groups  of  evergreens.  14.  Office. 

5,5.     Rhododendrons  and   coniferous   ever-  15.  Greenhouse, 

greens.  16.  Lodge. 

6.  Large  evergreens.  17.  Pond  for  aquatics,  with  groups  of  shrubs 

7.  Hemlock  spruce.  and  trees  planted  around  it. 

8.  White  birch  and  hemlock  spruce.  18.  California  privet  hedge. 

9.  Bed  of  Arundo   T^onax  and   Eulalia  gra-  19.   Lombardy  poplars. 

cillima.  20.  Grape-arbor. 


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GROUNDS    OF    TWENTY    ACRES 


9o 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


PLAN    FOR    GROUNDS    OF   SIX   ACRES 

The  accompanying  plan  was  made  for  the  grounds  of  John  Markle,  Esq.,  Jeddo,  Pa. 
As  these  grounds  were  surrounded  by  the  various  buildings  of  a  large  colliery,  the  first 
consideration  was  to  make  the  grounds  as  private  as  possible  and  shut  out  the  unsightly 
objects  that  were  in  view  in  every  direction ;  although  I  hold  that  privacy  is  always  as 
desirable  on  the  lawn  and  in  the  garden  as  it  is  in  the  living-rooms  of  the  house,  and 
secure  for  the  family  and  its  friends  much  freer  and  greater  enjoyment  than  when  the 
grounds  are  fully  exposed  to  the  highway.  In  the  present  instance  privacy  was  secured  by 
massed  planting  of  shrubs  and  by  a  hemlock  hedge  completely  surrounding  the  grounds. 

The  landscape  gardener  often  finds  that  his  lawns  are  spoiled,  in  spite  of  his  advice, 
by  being  cut  up  for  flower  beds  by  some  ambitious  gardener  anxious  to  show  his  skill  in 
making  colored  lines  of  coleus,  alternantheras,  and  other  tender  plants.  Such  a  contin- 
gency is  provided  for  in  this  plan  by  making  an  inclosed  formal  garden  for  bedding  plants 
in  summer  and  Dutch  bulbs  in  spring,  and  this  garden  in  no  way  spoils  the  repose  of  the 
lawns.  It  is  inclosed  by  a  hedge  of  Siberian  arborvitae  and  massed  planting  of  shrub- 
bery, and  must  be  visited  to  be  seen. 

EXPLANATION   OF   PLAN 


1.  i,  i,  i,  i,  i.  Massed  planting  of  decidu-      22. 

ous  and  evergreen  shrubs. 

2.  Specimen  shrubs.  23. 

3.  English  beech. 

4.  White-leaved  linden.  24. 

5.  Nordmann's  fir. 

6.  Cut-Leaved  Japan  maple.  25. 

7.  Group  of  Aral'ia   Japonlca.  26. 

8.  Scarlet  maple.  27. 

9.  Eulalia  gracillima  and  yuccas. 

10.  Group  of  small  deciduous  trees.  28. 

11.  Nordmann's     fir     and      Colorado  blue 

spruce.  29. 

12.  Specimen  shrubs,  evergreens,  and  Chinese      30. 

magnolias.  31. 

13.  Deciduous  trees  and  evergreens.  32. 

14.  Group   of    Chinese   and    Japanese  mag-      33. 

nolias.  34. 

15.  Scarlet  oak. 

16.  Scarlet  oak,  weeping  cypress,  and  weep-      35. 

ing  Norway  spruce.  36. 

17.  Sugar  maple.  37, 

18.  Tulip  tree.  38, 

19.  Fern-leaved  beech.  40. 

20.  20.  Pin  oaks.  41, 
_2i.   Evergreens  and  white  birch.  42. 


Evergreens,    rhododendrons,   and    Kalmia 

lati folia. 
Formal   garden    for   bedding    plants    and 

spring-flowering  bulbs. 
American   beech,   liquidambar,  and   tulip 

tree. 

Scarlet  maple. 

Group  of  Japanese  crab  apples. 
Wier's    maple,    pin    oak,    English    beech, 

black  walnut,  and  white  oak. 
Tulip    tree,     Magnolia    macrophylla     and 

scarlet  maple. 
Group  of  deciduous  trees. 
Mass  of  wild  crab  apples. 
American  elm. 
White,  scarlet,  and  pin  oaks. 
Summer  house. 
Rockery   on   both   sides   of   path   leading 

into  woods. 
Group  of  evergreens. 
Lombardy  poplars. 
Border  of  annuals. 
39.  Border  for  hardy  perennials. 
Border  of  hybrid  perpetual  roses. 
Bed  of  A rundo  Donax  and  Eulalia  gracillima. 
Lilacs,  assorted. 


92  A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 

PLAN    FOR    GLEN    COVE    RAILROAD    STATION 

Some  of  the  railroads,  notably  the  Pennsylvania  and  one  or  two  of  the  New  England 
companies,  have  been  devoting  considerable  attention,  of  late  years,  to  gardening  along  their 
lines.  Station-grounds  have  been  beautified,  and  the  steep  banks  made  by  grading  cuts 
have  been  planted  with  vines  and  shrubs.  This  work  is  not  costly,  and  is  a  distinct  gain 
to  the  companies  by  making  their  roads  more  attractive  to  travelers  and  the  seekers  of 
suburban  homes,  and  in  the  case  of  steep  banks  saves  them  from  loss  and  trouble  by  pre- 
venting the  slipping  of  loose  surface  soil,  which  is  very  apt  to  happen  after  heavy  rains,  or 
when  the  frost  comes  out  of  the  ground  in  the  spring  on  unplanted  banks. 

The  present  plan  was  made  for  the  station-grounds  at  Glen  Cove,  Long  Island,  near 
which  station  are  the  country  homes  of  many  wealthy  New  York  people.  These  grounds 
are  much  larger  than  those  usually  surrounding  suburban  stations  ;  but  I  believe  the  resi- 
dents joined  the  railroad  company  in  buying  and  improving  the  grounds,  and  the  result  is 
a  very  attractive  little  park  that  is  a  pleasure  and  credit  to  all  concerned. 

The  grounds  have  been  laid  out  and  planted  as  attractively  as  possible,  but  the  prac- 
tical purposes  of  the  station  have  not  been  overlooked,  and  ample  space  has  been  left  for 
standing  room  for  carriages  at  the  platforms. 

The  planting  list  includes  many  beautiful  trees,  shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants,  but  all 
of  easy  culture, — things  requiring  care,  of  course,  but  not  the  care  of  an  expert.  It  may  be 
interesting  to  know  that  the  famous  "  Dosoris  "  is  near  this  station,  and  to  this  Glen  Cove 
owes  much  of  its  progressive  spirit. 

EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 

1.  Magnolia  macrophylla.  22.  Oriental  sycamore. 

2.  Scarlet  oak.  23.  Weeping  rose-flowered  Japan  cherry. 

3.  Magnolia  conspicua.  24.  American  elm. 
4..  Nordmann's  fir.  25.  Salix  pentandra. 

5.  Sugar  maple.  26.  Group  of  hemlock  spruce. 

6.  Abies  concolor.  27.   White-leaved  linden. 

7.  Wier's  maple.  28.  Mains  Halliana. 

8.  Silver  maple.  29,  29.   Massed  planting  of  trees  and  shrubs. 

9.  Picea  polita.  30.   Pin    oaks    planted    fifty    feet    apart,    with 

10.  White-leaved  weeping  linden.  Carolina    poplars    planted    alternately. 

11.  Colorado  blue  spruce.  The   poplars,   which   are   of   extremely 

12.  Groups  of  white  birch.  rapid  growth,  are  to  be  cut  out  as  soon 

13.  Cut-leaved  birch.  as  the  pin  oaks  are  of  an  effective  size. 

14.  Magnolia  conspicua.  31.  White   ash   planted   fifty    feet    apart   and 

15.  Magnolia  parviflora.  Carolina    poplars    planted    alternately, 

16.  Magnolia  Soulangeana.  to  be  treated  as  noted  above. 

17.  Tulip  tree.  In    addition    to    the    above    a     California 

1 8.  Oriental  spruce.  privet  hedge   is   planted   along   both  sides  of 

19.  Douglas'  spruce.  the    main   entrance  driveway   and   along   one 

20.  Abies  Cephalonica.  side  of  the  driveway  paralleling  the    railroad 

21.  American  elm.  track. 


• 
* 
n 

* 

1 

« 

«; 

*: 

1 

FOR    GLEN    COVE    RAILROAD    STATION 


PLAN    FOR    SUBURBAN    LOT    75x160    FEET 

It  is  usually  thought  the  small  suburban  lot  is  unworthy  of  the  landscape  gardener's 
skill;  but  I  think  the  accompanying  plan,  which  is  for  a  lot  75  x  160  feet,  or  about  one- 
fourth  of  an  acre  of  ground,  proves  the  contrary.  This  plan  gives  what  is  not  always 
found  in  larger  places — small  but  good  lawn  effects,  a  considerable  variety  of  choice  plants 
and  shrubs,  changing  effects  from  spring  until  fall,  and  outdoor  privacy  for  the  family  and 
its  friends. 

The  present  plan  ignores  bedding  plants,  with  the  exception  of  the  French  cannas 
against  the  front  porch,  and  I  am  inclined  to  the  opinion  that  Eulalia  gracillima  (that  lovely 
tall  Japanese  plumed  grass,)  with  a  border  of  Siebold's  funkia,  would  be  better  and  would 
make  the  entire  planting  of  a  permanent  character.  The  new  French  cannas,  such  as  Mme. 
Crozy  and  Alphonse  Bouvier,  are,  however,  despite  their  one  fault  of  fading  in  hot  sun- 
shine, fine  enough  for  any  grounds,  and  their  splendid  coloring  in  September  and  October 
reconciles  us  to  their  summer  weakness.  A  disagreeable  feature  of  almost  every  small  place 
is  the  use  of  four  ugly  turned  posts  for  the  clothes-line.  These  can  be  avoided  by  using 
saplings  of  about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  cut  to  a  proper  length,  and  the  branches  short- 
ened to  about  five  or  six  feet.  These  can  be  covered  with  such  vines  as  trumpet  creeper, 
Chinese  wistaria,  or  Hall's  honeysuckle,  and  so  arranged  as  to  form  part  of  the  garden 
design. 

EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 


1.  California  privet  hedge. 

2.  Border  of  hybrid  perpetual  roses  and  hardy 

herbaceous  plants. 

3.  Scarlet  maple. 

4.  Shrubbery,    with    groups    of     herbaceous 

plants  in  margins. 


5.  White  birch. 

6.  Single  hollyhocks. 

7.  Rhododendrons,      with       Lilium      auratnm 

planted  among  them. 

8.  New  French  cannas,  or  Eulalia  gracillima 

and  Funkia  Sieboldiana. 


PLAN    FOR    SUBURBAN    LOT,    continued 

g.  Retinispora  plumosa  aurea  and  Andromeda  floribunda. 
Retinispora  is  to  be  kept  sheared  to  not  over 
three  and  a  half  feet  high. 

10.  Japan  maples. 

11.  Magnolia  stellata. 

12.  Magnolia   conspicua. 

13.  Posts  covered  with  vines  for  clothes-line. 

14.  Pavilion. 

15.  Low  stone  wall,  partly  covered  with  vines  (tropae- 

olums). 

In  addition  to  planting  shown  in  plan,  three  pin  oaks 
are  to  be  planted  between  the  side-walk  and  curb. 


PLAN    FOR    HARDY 
BORDERS 


PLANT 


The  accompanying  plan  is  designed  to  be  used  on 
both  sides  of  a  walk.  These  borders  would  be  equally 
suitable  for  placing  in  front  of  a  wall  or  hedge.  The 
walk,  instead  of  being  gravel,  might  be  one  of  grass, 
making  the  entire  space  between  the  borders  grass, 
and  this  would  be  much  more  effective. 

As  hardy  borders  are  intended  to  be  permanent, 
the  initial  preparation  of  the  soil  should  be  liberal. 
The  border  should  be  dug  out  to  the  depth  of  two 
feet,  preferably  two  and  one-half  feet,  and  filled  with 
all  good  surface  soil  mixed  with  one-fourth  its  bulk 
of  thoroughly  rotted  stable  manure.  After  planting, 
the  border  should  be  mulched  with  two  inches  of 
stable  manure  late  every  fall,  care  being  taken  that 
the  tops  of  no  evergreen  plants  are  covered,  as  it 
would  cause  them  to  rot. 

Borders  planted  as  shown  in  plan  will  give  a  suc- 
cession of  bloom  from  early  spring  until  fall,  but  the 
hardy  plants  and  bulbs  should  be  supplemented  by 
plantings  of  annuals,  such  as  Shirley  poppies,  Phlox 
'Drummondii,  nasturtiums,  sweet  alyssum,  and  asters, 
and  the  narrow  strip  for  bulbs  in  front  of  the  bor- 
ders might  be  planted  entirely  with  forget-me-not, 
which  would  not  interfere  at  all  with  the  growth  or 
bloom  of  the  bulbs. 


% 

SK 
8 


96 


A    PLEA    FOR    HARDY    PLANTS 


PLAN    FOR    SMALL    SUBURBAN    GROUNDS 


These  grounds  are,  for  the  greater  part,  practically 
level,  but  have  an  elevation  of  about  forty  feet  above 
the  street  they  front  on ;  the  front  of  the  grounds 
being  a  steep  embankment  covered  with  a  natural 
growth  of  trees  and  shrubs.  The  road  shown  at  the 
side  of  the  grounds  is  a  right  of  way  which  gives  en- 
trance to  three  or  four  contiguous  places. 

Privacy  is  secured  for  the  front  lawn  by  the  topog- 
raphy of  the  ground,  by  the  mass  of  shrubs  and  by 
hedges.  This  lawn  is  two  feet  higher  than  the  level 
of  the  carriage  road,  and  entrance  is  gained  to  it  by 
steps  through  the  hedge,  which  extends  from  side  of 
house  to  boundary  of  grounds.  Designed  for  F.  H. 
Russell,  Esq.,  Edgeworth,  Pa. 

These  grounds,  although  only  half  an  acre  in 
extent,  have  proven  most  successful,  due  as  much  to 
the  enthusiasm  of  the  owner  as  to  a  good  plan  faith- 
fully carried  out.  Many  large  places  are  less  effective 
and  comprehensive.  A  very  successful  flower  and 
vegetable  garden  is  a  feature,  and  some  fruit  is  grown. 
The  shrubberies  contain  a  good  assortment  of  varie 
ties,  and  the  little  lawn  is  quite  perfect.  The  natural 
topography  of  the  grounds,  which  has  been  undis- 
turbed, adds  greatly  to  their  beauty. 

EXPLANATION    OF    PLAN 

1,  i,  i,  i.   Massed  planting  of  shrubs. 

2,  2.  Hardy  perennial  plants. 

3.  Arundo  <Donax  and  Eulalia  gracillima. 

4.  Vines  and  shrubs  to  cover  steep  bank. 

5.  Natural  growth  on  steep  embankment. 

6,  6.   California  privet  hedge. 

7.  California  privet  hedge. 

8,  Q,  10,  n,  12,  15.      Fruit  trees. 
13,  13.  Grapes  on  trellis. 

17,  18,  19,  20,  21.   Posts  for  clothes-line. 

22.  Tulip  tree. 

23.  Pin  oak. 

24.  Purple  beech. 

25.  English  beech. 

26.  Scarlet  oak. 

27.  Magnolia  Soulangeana. 

28.  Japanese  snowball. 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


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